Does Obama deserve credit for the recent surge in the used car market?

seems used cars are more desirable now and value on certain models have gone up considerable. does obama deserve credit for helping the used car market?|||YES. The unemployed and under-employed cannot afford new cars. Obama has spent all we had and BORROWING AND SPENDING OVER 120 BILLION DOLLARS A MONTH MORE, but he still doesn't understand that the economy doesn't work that way. You can't borrow your way out of debt. It just gets worse! Guess they don't teach much economics in those fancy Ivy League schools?|||He and Congress do because of all the perfectly good used cars taken off the market. When you reduce supply, prices go up. In that case, those who could afford new cars, got a great deal, at taxpayer expense. Meanwhile, the poor who depend on used cars, suffered because of it|||obama increased the value of used cars by crushing all the good ones at the taxpayers expense


so i guess so, but i prefered older cars (because new cars all look the same to me anymore)|||no

How will I get the best price from a car dealer?

If I am buying a car, let's say a used car that is only two or three years old and has low mileage, what payment strategy will encourage the dealer to give me the lowest price?





A: Trade in a high-mileage low value used car, pay the balance in cash.


B: Trade in a high-mileage low value used car, finance the balance through my bank


C: Trade in a high-mileage low value used car, finance the balance through the dealer


D: Other|||of those, a mix of A and D, sell the car privately, and pay in cash... cash speaks, especially to companies that dont like to pay taxes...|||You can have C: Trade in a high-mileage low value used car, finance the balance through the dealer.. since there there are many options to take so that it will not be hard for you.|||As for me just trade in a high-mileage low value used car, finance the balance through the dealer. Cause I did it once.|||D. Sell your high-mileage low value used car on your own, then however you want.





Dealers have to make money on the front end.|||Most likely B or C. Rarely do people pay in cash for that kind of stuff.

First time buyer needs advice on buying used car. What are good brands to buy even when they are 15 yrs old?

And what do you suggest is a good VALUE when buying one of these cars?


What's the maximum mileage that a used car can have and still run well in your opinion?


And what questions should I ask the owner? What should I look for?





Thank you for your help.|||The one that has been well maintained. Ask for maintenance records and have a mechanic check it out before you buy.|||You should probably go with a Toyota Camry because the Honda's don't last (as) long and the Corolla should be the only other option, but during 1994-1997 the Corolla had trunk leaks during rainy days and you could see water spot inside the back tail lights that sometimes caused shortages. So your best shot will have to be a Camry.|||Stick to Japanese brands (Toyota, Honda). For mileage stick to under 150,000 miles. You should definitely take the car to a trusted mechanic before buying the car.|||聽


Buy a Used Car: Save on Depreciation Buy a used car and you will spend less; but how much will repairs cost you in the months ahead? Buy a new car and you will have peace of mind, but your monthly budget will take quite a hit. When it comes time to a buy a car, the big question is, "used or new?"





Buyers choose used cars far more often then new. Edmunds.com estimates that in 2006, Americans bought about 44 million used cars as compared to about 17 million new cars. The estimated average used car price: $13,900. The estimated average new car price is more than twice as much: $27,800.





The main reason for the sharp drop between new and used cars is depreciation. Savvy shoppers who take advantage of this can buy a "newer" used car for much less by waiting a year or two.





When you finance a car, remember that you will be paying for more than the vehicle. You will also be paying for the cost of credit, which includes interest and other loan fees. Keep in mind that annual percentage rates are higher and loan periods shorter when you buy a used car than when you buy new.





Car Care Tips








When you buy a used car, you would like it to last longer than your car loan. Here are some tips from AAA to help you keep your car on the road for years to come:





- Good maintenance. Most drivers change oil more often than they need to but don't rotate their tires as frequently as they should. Proper rotation can add as much as 10,000 miles to the life of a set of tires.





- Run your engine for a few minutes before powering up the heater, air conditioner, wipers and other accessories. Accelerating with a cold engine can cause premature engine failure.





- If your vehicle has fuel injection, keep the tank at least one-quarter full. Cornering with a nearly empty tank disrupts the flow to the fuel pump.





- Look for cracks or looseness in engine belts. Broken belts are a major reason for roadside breakdowns.





You can begin your search for used car financing by completing the request form at Approved Autos. While there, you can read more about Buying Used Cars.


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聽聽 By Mike Hamel7

Has anyone experienced a used car dealer wanting their car back because they valued the trade-in too low?

They thought they were making profit on the deal then later found out they over valued your trade and are now either not making as much or maybe even loosing money on the deal. If all the paperwork was signed and you paid cash, then darn the bad luck. There the professionals not you if they made a mistake too bad. Not your fault. I doubt they would have been willing to give you any money back if they found out that the trade in was worth more than they thought. If they try this again ask them if they would like a judge to decide whats right. Sounds like you got a good deal.|||If the dealer is saying they under priced your trade-in and are saying they want to give you some money back I wouldn't believe it and would suspect some plan to get you back and upsell you on some add-ons, traders, after all, always under price trade-ins! If they are saying they gave you too much for your trade-in and want you to give them more money well that's their mistake and you can either ignore them or complain to trading standards or the US equivalent.|||1 mad jack is sort of right..but read your contract Ill bet you are on the hook..contract usually sez your deal is based on getting the finance at a certain rate,,,if it doesn't come through they have the right to get finance at another rate,,


dont assUme because you drove off with the car you now own it,,,deal with it before you have a cop pull you over for auto theft..probably will not happen but the loan co and dealer own the car until its paid off..|||Never. Sounds like a ploy to get you back into the dealership to me. I would definitely be wary of them, as even ethical dealerships don't do this sort of thing.





They probably want you to sign some new paperwork for a higher interest rate because they were unable to finance you for whatever rate you signed for.|||Isn't that the point of business? Buying something for less than its value so you can resale and make a profit? I would make sure that all the figures, interest rates, etc. will remain the same (or better) before I even put my name on anything. That sounds really fishy. I'd ask a lot of questions.





If I got someone's trade for next to nothing, why would I call them back and say "hey, I meant to give you more for your trade so I'd lose more money. Let's retry this."|||They valued your trade in too low? Doesn't that mean that they made more money on you than they thought they would? This sounds very fishy to me. I would just tell them that you signed a contract and you don't plan on giving the car back. There is really nothing they can do about it.|||If the new car is signed over to you and in your name, don't do it. Bout you and the dealer signed a contract, the sales agreement. Let them take you to court. You will win.|||Nope, when you sign those papers its all over, even if the trade it car breaks down, they cant do anything about it|||No, it has never happened to me. You should just say no, once its yours its yours.|||No but I know of a person who have wanted their house back because they got offered more for another house. :)|||Yeah,





I would not worry about it.

What is the best value second hand car for under $10,000?

I want to upgrade my car and my budget is $10,000 tops. I'm looking for a 4 cyl 1.6-1.8 motor sedan, preferably done less than 80,000km. So far only Daewoos, Hyundais and Lancers fit this criteria. I have never driven any of these - does anyone own one who can give an opinion? Are they good value used cars? Any other suggestions? PS I live in Australia.|||once you decide on the car check out





http://www.siftin.com/#vehicles





This site provides used car listings from all major online sites but also searches local dealers inventory for used cars and your local newspaper ads. Hence the listing is very comprehensive. Its a little slow as it pulls data from many sites right then to get you uptodate listing, but worth it as you don't have to look at many sites.|||I was on board until you said you were in Australia.





Here in the US, I rely heavily on Consumer Reports, They do an annual report on the most reliable used cars, rating them in various categories (engine, transmission, hardware, etc.) with an overall rating. Then they list the best choices in various price categories. Although those ratings may not translate 100%, they should give you an idea of which vehicles should be in your sights.

What's the best value extended warranty for a used car?

I want to get a extended warranty plan from a reliable company to cover the basic components - engine, transmission etc. Any suggestions?|||There is no good extended warranty.... the ones who sell make good money doing so and any repairs needed to the car well usually cost less the the extended warranty will cost you.|||There are approximately zero reliable extended warranties available for used car. None of them are worth the money you pay for them. Never buy an extended warranty. All an extended warranty is, is an insurance policy for future repairs. In the best case scenario you'll never use the policy coverage and it's a total waste of cash. In the worst case scenario they'll refuse to cover the needed repair (which happens in the majority of the cases) claiming neglect or abuse in which it is again, a total waste of cash. Or the company disappears and goes out of business and you are left with a worthless piece of paper, again a total waste of cash. Or your mechanic of choice decides he won't honor the warranty because the warranty service company never pays on their claims even after they say they will and he's tired of getting ripped off. Again, a total waste of cash.





The ONLY exception to this rule is to get a certified pre owned car from the new car dealer. This coverage is almost identical to a new car warranty that is backed by the manufacturer and the dealer takes care of everything, just like it was a new car. Buying a certified pre owned car adds about $1500 - $1900 to the price of the car.|||Sorry to AGREE with the previous answers.





Aftermarket warranties are filled with exclusions, limitations, and deductibles. They seldom cover enough to make the warranty a wise purchase.





Take the $ you would have spent on the warranty, and put it in the bank. Let it earn interest for you and grow rather than become a liability. When the car needs repair, you will have the $ to fix it. If it never needs repair, you wont have wasted the money.|||I recommend none. Keep the oil cahnged. Save the warranty money for the repairs. Your car is designed to last 225,000 or more miles. Auto makers do every thing in thier power to make sure the car will last for ever. If the car is over three years old any mistake was made in manufacturing it would have showed up by now.





the warranty companies make money because they know the vast majority of people will never use it. It is easy money for them. Further more they will be very obtuse when describing what is covered so getting them to pay a bill will be hard.





Bank the money. Don't loose any sleep cause you don't have a warranty. You don't need one.|||Don't waste your money.





Have the car checked out before you buy it. maintain it.





If you want to stick the cost of the warranty into a savings account just for car repairs then feel free.





Most extended warranties do not pay out any claims.





There are a million reasons for them to legally refuse your claim and they know it.

How can I negotiate a lower price on a used car being sold by a dealer, (not a private seller)?

I want to buy a used compact car and spend between $7,500 - $9,500. I've seen several cars advertised online by dealers and private sellers that come close to meeting my criteria, but I would prefer to buy from a reputable dealer (like Carmax or similar) that does a 100+ point mechanical/safety inspection. I know that dealers price cars above the Blue Book value to make a profit. So how can I negotiate the price down closer to my preferred minimum price of $7,500? Also, can anyone recommend online references/resources that provide advice on how to negotiate effectively with auto dealers, for either used or new cars? (I live in the Washington, DC/Baltimore, MD metro areas if that's relevant.)|||The only reasonable response I have seen to your question is to check www.kbb.com or www.edmonds.com. Everything else is hogwash. These two webs sites provide you with a reasonable knowledge of what the car is worth and will provide you with trade in value, as well as, retail value. The dealers will have close to trade in value in the car plus their reconditioning costs. Get this info so you are not offering something that is completely unreasonable, and offer somewhere between trade in and retail. Make sure you are looking at cars that are within your price range of course.|||Go to kbb.com and get the market value for the car.


Wait till the end of the month or near closing time, or both.


Find a similar car at another lot to use as leverage.


That will be your best odds.|||tell them joey's crap cars down the street but you here they (the dealership you want to buy from) is more reputable so if we can't negociate then they will|||Okay here we go .... if you want a cheap car then go buy UN-inspected and cheap --- if you want to have a descent ride then you gotta pay the dealers price and that is the way it works........ so you tell me you work for low money___ how can you expect the dealership to sell you a good car for peanuts and still inspect and clean the car%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt; and keep the dealership afloat|||Negotiating tips: http://www.usedcartips.org/index.html





But actually, $7k will nearly buy a new Kia, with a 10yr/100k warranty, according to ads here.





I used to work for a company that inspected Used Cars for the buyer, at their expense. We once worked with a local TV station, investigating classified ads for cars. The disappointing result was that 90% of the ads were run by resellers. Many posing as if they had owned the car for years. So first off be a serious shopper, don't get excited about appearances. I told people that when they called, or if you email, about an advertised vehicle, ask if the car is titled in the sellers state, in the sellers name %26amp; will they show you their ID %26amp; the title? If you get ANY answer but yes say T-Y %26amp; hang up, don't believe the BS stories about selling for a friend etc. Now as to car choice, watch for over-looked cars. For example, Mitsubishi, Suzuki %26amp; Subaru build solid dependable cars for a reasonable price, they are cheap used, because everyone thinks of the big players. In fact domestics can be a real bargain, if the mileage isn鈥檛 over 100k.





Beyond that, you can always bid low, if that actually let you walk, rare, come back next day to bid slightly higher or move on. Don't get excited about those "inspections" I worked at a dealership that hung those on every used car, but ran none through the Service Dept.; Sales dept. refused to pay for it.|||Remember this: Nobody is forcing you to buy that car. There are many other cars just as good that you can buy. You tell the salesman "This is how much I'm willing to pay". He/she will either say yes or no. If they say yes, then you've got a deal. If they say no, you get out of your chair and head for the door.





More advice, go to the dealer the last day or two of any month, the salespeople have quotas and many will do whatever it takes to get the sale. Hope this helps.|||See Kelly Blue Book or Edmonds.com|||Just stick your your personal commitment to stay at or below 9500. Make the sales person spend a lot of time with you and show him you are serious. They will want to sell to you because you are serious and smart. There are a lot of dopes who will waste money. Don't be one of them.


Best of luck to you and yours.|||Look the car up on KBB.com to find out its value. Once you have done that ask to see the dealers invoice so you can see what the dealer paid for the vehicle. They may give you a hard time about showing you the dealers invoice but trust me, they will show it to you! By looking at the dealers invoice you can tell whether or not they are trying to rape you with the price or if they are trying to make an honest profit. You can ue this invoice to talk the price down. If they aren't giving you the price you want threaten to leave and if that doesn't work...get up and walk away. Most of the time if you threaten to leave or start to walk away suddenly they can work miracles. Always make sure you are willing to get up and walk away from a deal and don't do anthing that makes you feel uncomfortable. Good luck!|||you get what you pay for.|||If you want to pay $7500 and its in the ballpark, tell the dealer "this is what I will pay" then shut up. The dealer will hem and haw, talk to his manager and all kinds of shenanigans. Walk out if he won't say yes or no. Tell him to call you if he wants to sell the car at that price. If your offer is reasonable, he'll sell.

Used car refinance loan for upside down vehicle?

I have a car that is leased with payoff remaining is 20000 and I would like to buy it out...but I see the car value is around 18000...





now, when I apply for a used car loan can I get the loan for 20,000? or will the banks ONLY give maximum loan of what the car is actually worth(i.e. 18,000)?|||call a bank and see...if your credits good they just might|||For most people, banks won't loan more than the value of the vehicle.

Used car refinance loan for upside down vehicle?

I have a car that is leased with payoff remaining is 20000 and I would like to buy it out...but I see the car value is around 18000...





now, when I apply for a used car loan can I get the loan for 20,000? or will the banks ONLY give maximum loan of what the car is actually worth(i.e. 18,000)?|||cheaper to pay out lease......bet its worth no where near 18k.......make your lease payment and when done your not hooked anymore.....

What is the tax rate if I buy a used car in New York? what is the rate to import to Canada?

Hi, there are actually 2 questions. If you know either part, please answer.





[1] I have read that for the tax rate, it depends where in NY I register the car. BUT I plan to import it to Canada--it will not be registered in the US. So what is the tax rate if I just buy the car and drive it away?





Other than misc fixed fees, I know there is a rate (based on the car's value) that I need to pay for the car to be imported into Canada. Is this just the GST of 7% or some other value?





Thanks all!|||CALL YOUR LOCAL DMV OFFICE, THEY WILL BE ABLE TO ANSWER ANY AND ALL OF YOUR QUESTIONS AND AT THE SAME TIME YOU WILL BE GETTING THE CORRECT ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION.

What is the best value used car under $10,000?

The Honda Civic for the years of 2003-2005.





Or Honda Accord for the years of 2001-2003.


_


_


_


_


_|||research it yourself!


http://www.tradecarview.com/





good luck|||Honda, Toyota, Subaru. The are reliable and dependable make sure the service records are kept up with whatever car you buy.|||2005-2006 Ford Taurus is hard to beat. You can purchase these cars for right around $10K, even less for a 2005. And, that is with factory warranty! It's powered by one of the industry's best V-6's (3.0 liter).





No matter what way you look at it, $10K is a lot of money. By buying something with warranty, it will give you peace of mind to know you have the security that if something does go wrong, it's covered. Plus, you can purchase extended service plans for less while the car is under its original factory warranty.





You're going to get a lot of people tell you to buy Toyota or Honda. I agree these companies make very good cars. However, the great resale value that is always bragged about will make $10K a limited budget in purchasing one. You'll get an older, higher miles vehicle, with no warranty for that price with the 2 big imports. Plus, being in the car business, I can tell you (at the risk of sounding like I'm stereotyping all owners, and I'm not) most imports we see traded in are not kept in the shape that domestic vehicles are. The "bulletproof" reputations of the imports, in my opinion, lead many owners to neglect many of the regular maintenance needs of their vehicles. And, most of the lower dollar imports (corollas, civics, matrix, etc.) are most likely owned by younger owners, leading to more irregular maintenance concerns.





The Taurus' I mentioned at this price range are 3 out of 4 times factory program cars that were repurchased from rental agencies. Say what you want about rental repurchased cars, but these rental companies have a LOT of money invested in their fleets and they maintain them better than any private individual could do. So I'd say these cars have the edge on maintenance history over imports in that price range.





You can't say enough about the opportunity to buy a late model car with warranty, and that is why I believe the Taurus is the best buy at this price range.

Why would the bank get a different value than me or the dealer from NADA on a used car?

The dealer shows a value of $16,995 and I get the same number. However, the bank uses the same program and comes up with $14,000....what the F%26amp;^%? Why would the dealer list a used car for so much more than you can get a loan for?|||The bank cares about the LOAN value. The dealer cares about the RETAIL value.|||The dealer can set any price he wants on his car. And perhaps the bank is using fair market value adjusted for their location. But it really doesn't matter, if you want it just do a bigger down payment. Pay $3 grand down and you can probably finance the rest.|||The dealer is quoting you Retail value. The bank is giving you the Loan value. Rarely will a bank loan you 100% of the vehicles value. The difference is going to have to come out of your pocket in the form of a down payment.|||its called profit,, you need to have that much down so at that cost without discounting the car you need that 2995 down cash or trade you have to understand that if they bought the car and repair and inspection fees cost them 13500.00 then that 16995 price is the profit margin they are working with

Used cars values?

check kelly blue book|||Find the Kelley Blue Book Value.|||kbb.com

How to assess the value of used car in hyderabad?

basically i am looking at the consultant and mechanic who can do the evaluation fairly|||I would just ask around in India at your workplace and with your friends and see what they are saying because word of mouth is the best advertisement around, sorry but that is all that I can do for you, good luck...

Which Kelley Blue Book rating do banks use to determine the value of a used car?

kbb.com lists three separate ratings: Trade-In Value, Private Party Value, and Suggested Retail Value. There actually is quite a difference between them.|||Banks actually use the "loan value" which is in the printed books dealers get but usually not available to the public. It's roughly 60% of retail.|||Banks usually use the NADA value, at least they have in the past. One loan officer told me that the Kelly Blue Book price was too inflated, and that's why they went with NADA.|||I am a car dealer and can tell you that banks never use KBB. They do use NADA like other people have said. The quote is "left hand book" is what they usually loan, and that means the left side of NADA book plus tax. KBB has been accused of being overinflated, so now they have countered that with being underinflated.|||Most financial institutions actually use the NADA price guide.|||Current|||Banks will more than likely use private party value. Retail value would be the highest value, trade in would be the lowest. The bank would be considered a private party. Hope this helps.|||they don't use KBB, they use the NADA book and they will give you the wholesale price for your car, thats the price they get them at auction for, your better off selling your own car if you can.|||it depends on what you are trying to do, but purchasing a car, they will get close to retail value but it depends on what is going on at auctions, which is where NADA comes in and records that, which is more acurate, but different banks give different advances, like most will give you 110-120% of retail value including your taxes title and license fees,


WWW.SUNRISECHEVY.COM


MIDLOTHIAN


GABRIEL

Used car value sites?

Thanks in advance for the help provided.





Blessings!|||The best one, and the only one i use, Kelly Blue Book





http://www.kbb.com/|||KBB.com is the most detailed and accurate, but you could also use Edmunds.com. To make sure the car you're looking at is really worth the value, I would aslo suggest visiting Aimmobileinspections.com to get a condition report.|||None of the free ones are worth a darn.





Even the pay one that is, Black Book, isn't worth much without experience.|||KBB , NADA, EDMONDS

Should I buy a new or used car (What is the better value)?

Used cars seem to be a lot of money right now. I looked at Chevy Malibu's for around 13 grand used as 2008-2009 models or I could buy new car for around 16 or 17 grand (Ford Fiesta). The dealers told me "Japanese Cars" such as Toyota and Honda last longer and will hold their "value" longer. Which is the better value (Probably will put around 15-20 thousand miles on the car per year). Thanks!!|||The worst singe day for any new car is when it is driven off the lot, that is the day it loses the most value. A car might be worth (as a trade in) 50% of the value after 3 or 4 years, but that 50% is not even throughout the years, the biggest chunk is in the first year.





If you want the best value, a 2-year old, low mileage, well cared for Honda or Toyota (or Lexus or Acura) from a private party is going to give you the best combination of lower initial price and reliability. However, new cars are easier to finance and come with better warranties, so these factor may make a new car that you are going to keep for 6 years a reasonable purchase over a used car that is going to be more difficult to finance, will not have the same warranty, and may not be the exact combination of features and color you wish to have.|||Anthony,





I would definitely recommend purchasing a new vehicle. A new GM vehicle would come with a great warranty that would be of assistance. Also, in the unfortunate case that you get a flat tire or break down our new vehicles have a 100,000 mile/5-year 24/7 Roadside Assistance.





Thank you





Elizabeth, GM Customer Service|||i would for sure get a honda


they last for LONG time


more then 200,000 miles with usually no problems


and also way better with vtec engine

Can I sue for negative equity on totaled used car?

I financed a used car about 2 and a half weeks ago. This Saturday someone ran a red light and hit my car, sending it into a telephone pole. I'm pretty sure that the car will be a total loss/ write off and I'm worried that the insurance company will give me the blue book value of my car and I'll be left to pay the remaining amount owing on my loan which will probably be around $2000.





My question is, can I sue the other driver for the remaining amount that I will owe on my loan? He has admitted fault and also was charged for wreckless driving/ running red light.





It just doesn't seem fair that I could be doing everything right, just driving down the road and this guy can drop a large debt on my lap.|||First if you're afraid you're going to owe on your car, 2 things: you either overfinanced your vehicle OR you didn't buy GAP insurance. Either way that's your fault. Second, you are due the actual cash value of your vehicle which is NOT blue book.


Can you sue? Nope....a judge is going to tell you what I just told ya---the dirtbag owes for your damages, the dirtbag is not responsible for your large debt, that is over financing OR your failure to obtain proper coverage, which in this case is GAP insurance.|||You should already know this, but the answer to your question depends on whether you borrowed more than the car is worth or not.





You didn't mention that, and it's going to be important. A lot of people, buying a $2000 car with $3000 book value and a good bank, might borrow extra money and blow it on something like polyester pants or Barry Manilow records. If you did that, you'll have to pay for it.|||How much you owe on the car is your problem. The other driver or their insurance company is only liable for the fair market value of the vehicle. You should have bought gap insurance to cover the negative equity. It isn't the other drivers fault you made a bad deal and got in over your head.|||1st off, if your car is totaled, they will only pay ACV, (actual cash value) pre-accident; so if you bought this car for 2k and it was only worth 1500 pre accident, then that is what they will pay you; you will then owe 500 more for the loan; go to nada.com or edmunds.com and find out what the value of your car was pre-accident; that should be the amount they will pay for your totaled car; (remember that the dealer does not sell you a car at "true value" or they would not make money)





you cant sue for the unpaid loan amount; you can only be paid ACV for your auto; this person owes for what the value was, not the loan amount; unless you have gap insurance or paid a substantial amount for a down payment prior to the 2k loan, you will most likely get only the ACV;





also a lawyer will not take an property case (auto); if so, he will take either 1/3 or charge you an hourly fee; so as an example; say you are paid 1500, the lawyer takes 500 and you get 1000; you are now 1k down on the loan and from the lawyer; attorneys are interested in injury cases; look in the yellow pages and what do you see? are you injured? call us;





i know that you are unhappy about being in the wrong place at the wrong time, but be happy he has insurance; otherwise, your company will pay you ACV and you will pay your deductible which most likely is 500;|||You can try. But in the future, always buy gap insurance.|||The other guys insurance should pay off your car.|||YES YOU CAN AT THE CIVIL COURT AND AFTER YOU WIN ASK THE JUDGE THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO HAVE THE OTHER PARTIES WAGES GARNISHED AS WELL.





IF YOU GET NOWHERE WITH THE GARNISHMENT THEN YOU WILL NEED TO PUT A LIEN ON THEIR PERSONAL AND PRIVATE PROPERTY AND THAT WAY THEY WILL HAVE TO SATISFY THE LIEN BEFORE THEY SELL OR PURCHASE ANYTHING LARGE IN VALUE THAT REQUIRES A CREDIT CHECK.





GOOD LUCK.|||Get a good lawyer, you should be able to recover the excess cost, plus enough to pay the lawyer and maybe a little extra to put a down payment on another car. It could take several years, tho. My husband was hit by a car that ran a red light in 2002 - April. We just got a settlement to cover expenses this month...Oct. 2007. expenses were not a new car...we bought it in 2002 and just paid it off in Aug. the settlement came nowhere near close to do that. we are able now to pay off the Dr's bills and such...and we might have $1000 to put in a savings acct. when it's all said and done. but with a good lawyer, all your expenses should be covered.

How do I find out what a car USE to be valued at if I were to do a search from the past?

Car values are based on two major bits of info. Condition and age of the car. If i were to do a search on a vehicle that is 1 year old, its be worth alot more then if I did a search for the value of that exact same car 5 years later.





How can I find out what an 03 car was worth in the year 04 instead of the year 2010?|||What I would do is find out what the same car in a 2009 model year is worth today in 2010. That's about all you can do.

Anyone know of a site to find value of a used car... other than kelley blue book?

Car is 1985 and kelley blue book doesn't go back that far. Any similar sites?|||try edmunds or nada. not sure if they go back that far either|||Nadaguides.com is your best bet for an older car like that, but unless it's some sort of collector's item, it's probably not worth much.