Does Obama deserve credit for the recent surge in the used car market?

seems used cars are more desirable now and value on certain models have gone up considerable. does obama deserve credit for helping the used car market?|||YES. The unemployed and under-employed cannot afford new cars. Obama has spent all we had and BORROWING AND SPENDING OVER 120 BILLION DOLLARS A MONTH MORE, but he still doesn't understand that the economy doesn't work that way. You can't borrow your way out of debt. It just gets worse! Guess they don't teach much economics in those fancy Ivy League schools?|||He and Congress do because of all the perfectly good used cars taken off the market. When you reduce supply, prices go up. In that case, those who could afford new cars, got a great deal, at taxpayer expense. Meanwhile, the poor who depend on used cars, suffered because of it|||obama increased the value of used cars by crushing all the good ones at the taxpayers expense


so i guess so, but i prefered older cars (because new cars all look the same to me anymore)|||no

How will I get the best price from a car dealer?

If I am buying a car, let's say a used car that is only two or three years old and has low mileage, what payment strategy will encourage the dealer to give me the lowest price?





A: Trade in a high-mileage low value used car, pay the balance in cash.


B: Trade in a high-mileage low value used car, finance the balance through my bank


C: Trade in a high-mileage low value used car, finance the balance through the dealer


D: Other|||of those, a mix of A and D, sell the car privately, and pay in cash... cash speaks, especially to companies that dont like to pay taxes...|||You can have C: Trade in a high-mileage low value used car, finance the balance through the dealer.. since there there are many options to take so that it will not be hard for you.|||As for me just trade in a high-mileage low value used car, finance the balance through the dealer. Cause I did it once.|||D. Sell your high-mileage low value used car on your own, then however you want.





Dealers have to make money on the front end.|||Most likely B or C. Rarely do people pay in cash for that kind of stuff.

First time buyer needs advice on buying used car. What are good brands to buy even when they are 15 yrs old?

And what do you suggest is a good VALUE when buying one of these cars?


What's the maximum mileage that a used car can have and still run well in your opinion?


And what questions should I ask the owner? What should I look for?





Thank you for your help.|||The one that has been well maintained. Ask for maintenance records and have a mechanic check it out before you buy.|||You should probably go with a Toyota Camry because the Honda's don't last (as) long and the Corolla should be the only other option, but during 1994-1997 the Corolla had trunk leaks during rainy days and you could see water spot inside the back tail lights that sometimes caused shortages. So your best shot will have to be a Camry.|||Stick to Japanese brands (Toyota, Honda). For mileage stick to under 150,000 miles. You should definitely take the car to a trusted mechanic before buying the car.|||聽


Buy a Used Car: Save on Depreciation Buy a used car and you will spend less; but how much will repairs cost you in the months ahead? Buy a new car and you will have peace of mind, but your monthly budget will take quite a hit. When it comes time to a buy a car, the big question is, "used or new?"





Buyers choose used cars far more often then new. Edmunds.com estimates that in 2006, Americans bought about 44 million used cars as compared to about 17 million new cars. The estimated average used car price: $13,900. The estimated average new car price is more than twice as much: $27,800.





The main reason for the sharp drop between new and used cars is depreciation. Savvy shoppers who take advantage of this can buy a "newer" used car for much less by waiting a year or two.





When you finance a car, remember that you will be paying for more than the vehicle. You will also be paying for the cost of credit, which includes interest and other loan fees. Keep in mind that annual percentage rates are higher and loan periods shorter when you buy a used car than when you buy new.





Car Care Tips








When you buy a used car, you would like it to last longer than your car loan. Here are some tips from AAA to help you keep your car on the road for years to come:





- Good maintenance. Most drivers change oil more often than they need to but don't rotate their tires as frequently as they should. Proper rotation can add as much as 10,000 miles to the life of a set of tires.





- Run your engine for a few minutes before powering up the heater, air conditioner, wipers and other accessories. Accelerating with a cold engine can cause premature engine failure.





- If your vehicle has fuel injection, keep the tank at least one-quarter full. Cornering with a nearly empty tank disrupts the flow to the fuel pump.





- Look for cracks or looseness in engine belts. Broken belts are a major reason for roadside breakdowns.





You can begin your search for used car financing by completing the request form at Approved Autos. While there, you can read more about Buying Used Cars.


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聽聽 By Mike Hamel7

Has anyone experienced a used car dealer wanting their car back because they valued the trade-in too low?

They thought they were making profit on the deal then later found out they over valued your trade and are now either not making as much or maybe even loosing money on the deal. If all the paperwork was signed and you paid cash, then darn the bad luck. There the professionals not you if they made a mistake too bad. Not your fault. I doubt they would have been willing to give you any money back if they found out that the trade in was worth more than they thought. If they try this again ask them if they would like a judge to decide whats right. Sounds like you got a good deal.|||If the dealer is saying they under priced your trade-in and are saying they want to give you some money back I wouldn't believe it and would suspect some plan to get you back and upsell you on some add-ons, traders, after all, always under price trade-ins! If they are saying they gave you too much for your trade-in and want you to give them more money well that's their mistake and you can either ignore them or complain to trading standards or the US equivalent.|||1 mad jack is sort of right..but read your contract Ill bet you are on the hook..contract usually sez your deal is based on getting the finance at a certain rate,,,if it doesn't come through they have the right to get finance at another rate,,


dont assUme because you drove off with the car you now own it,,,deal with it before you have a cop pull you over for auto theft..probably will not happen but the loan co and dealer own the car until its paid off..|||Never. Sounds like a ploy to get you back into the dealership to me. I would definitely be wary of them, as even ethical dealerships don't do this sort of thing.





They probably want you to sign some new paperwork for a higher interest rate because they were unable to finance you for whatever rate you signed for.|||Isn't that the point of business? Buying something for less than its value so you can resale and make a profit? I would make sure that all the figures, interest rates, etc. will remain the same (or better) before I even put my name on anything. That sounds really fishy. I'd ask a lot of questions.





If I got someone's trade for next to nothing, why would I call them back and say "hey, I meant to give you more for your trade so I'd lose more money. Let's retry this."|||They valued your trade in too low? Doesn't that mean that they made more money on you than they thought they would? This sounds very fishy to me. I would just tell them that you signed a contract and you don't plan on giving the car back. There is really nothing they can do about it.|||If the new car is signed over to you and in your name, don't do it. Bout you and the dealer signed a contract, the sales agreement. Let them take you to court. You will win.|||Nope, when you sign those papers its all over, even if the trade it car breaks down, they cant do anything about it|||No, it has never happened to me. You should just say no, once its yours its yours.|||No but I know of a person who have wanted their house back because they got offered more for another house. :)|||Yeah,





I would not worry about it.

What is the best value second hand car for under $10,000?

I want to upgrade my car and my budget is $10,000 tops. I'm looking for a 4 cyl 1.6-1.8 motor sedan, preferably done less than 80,000km. So far only Daewoos, Hyundais and Lancers fit this criteria. I have never driven any of these - does anyone own one who can give an opinion? Are they good value used cars? Any other suggestions? PS I live in Australia.|||once you decide on the car check out





http://www.siftin.com/#vehicles





This site provides used car listings from all major online sites but also searches local dealers inventory for used cars and your local newspaper ads. Hence the listing is very comprehensive. Its a little slow as it pulls data from many sites right then to get you uptodate listing, but worth it as you don't have to look at many sites.|||I was on board until you said you were in Australia.





Here in the US, I rely heavily on Consumer Reports, They do an annual report on the most reliable used cars, rating them in various categories (engine, transmission, hardware, etc.) with an overall rating. Then they list the best choices in various price categories. Although those ratings may not translate 100%, they should give you an idea of which vehicles should be in your sights.

What's the best value extended warranty for a used car?

I want to get a extended warranty plan from a reliable company to cover the basic components - engine, transmission etc. Any suggestions?|||There is no good extended warranty.... the ones who sell make good money doing so and any repairs needed to the car well usually cost less the the extended warranty will cost you.|||There are approximately zero reliable extended warranties available for used car. None of them are worth the money you pay for them. Never buy an extended warranty. All an extended warranty is, is an insurance policy for future repairs. In the best case scenario you'll never use the policy coverage and it's a total waste of cash. In the worst case scenario they'll refuse to cover the needed repair (which happens in the majority of the cases) claiming neglect or abuse in which it is again, a total waste of cash. Or the company disappears and goes out of business and you are left with a worthless piece of paper, again a total waste of cash. Or your mechanic of choice decides he won't honor the warranty because the warranty service company never pays on their claims even after they say they will and he's tired of getting ripped off. Again, a total waste of cash.





The ONLY exception to this rule is to get a certified pre owned car from the new car dealer. This coverage is almost identical to a new car warranty that is backed by the manufacturer and the dealer takes care of everything, just like it was a new car. Buying a certified pre owned car adds about $1500 - $1900 to the price of the car.|||Sorry to AGREE with the previous answers.





Aftermarket warranties are filled with exclusions, limitations, and deductibles. They seldom cover enough to make the warranty a wise purchase.





Take the $ you would have spent on the warranty, and put it in the bank. Let it earn interest for you and grow rather than become a liability. When the car needs repair, you will have the $ to fix it. If it never needs repair, you wont have wasted the money.|||I recommend none. Keep the oil cahnged. Save the warranty money for the repairs. Your car is designed to last 225,000 or more miles. Auto makers do every thing in thier power to make sure the car will last for ever. If the car is over three years old any mistake was made in manufacturing it would have showed up by now.





the warranty companies make money because they know the vast majority of people will never use it. It is easy money for them. Further more they will be very obtuse when describing what is covered so getting them to pay a bill will be hard.





Bank the money. Don't loose any sleep cause you don't have a warranty. You don't need one.|||Don't waste your money.





Have the car checked out before you buy it. maintain it.





If you want to stick the cost of the warranty into a savings account just for car repairs then feel free.





Most extended warranties do not pay out any claims.





There are a million reasons for them to legally refuse your claim and they know it.

How can I negotiate a lower price on a used car being sold by a dealer, (not a private seller)?

I want to buy a used compact car and spend between $7,500 - $9,500. I've seen several cars advertised online by dealers and private sellers that come close to meeting my criteria, but I would prefer to buy from a reputable dealer (like Carmax or similar) that does a 100+ point mechanical/safety inspection. I know that dealers price cars above the Blue Book value to make a profit. So how can I negotiate the price down closer to my preferred minimum price of $7,500? Also, can anyone recommend online references/resources that provide advice on how to negotiate effectively with auto dealers, for either used or new cars? (I live in the Washington, DC/Baltimore, MD metro areas if that's relevant.)|||The only reasonable response I have seen to your question is to check www.kbb.com or www.edmonds.com. Everything else is hogwash. These two webs sites provide you with a reasonable knowledge of what the car is worth and will provide you with trade in value, as well as, retail value. The dealers will have close to trade in value in the car plus their reconditioning costs. Get this info so you are not offering something that is completely unreasonable, and offer somewhere between trade in and retail. Make sure you are looking at cars that are within your price range of course.|||Go to kbb.com and get the market value for the car.


Wait till the end of the month or near closing time, or both.


Find a similar car at another lot to use as leverage.


That will be your best odds.|||tell them joey's crap cars down the street but you here they (the dealership you want to buy from) is more reputable so if we can't negociate then they will|||Okay here we go .... if you want a cheap car then go buy UN-inspected and cheap --- if you want to have a descent ride then you gotta pay the dealers price and that is the way it works........ so you tell me you work for low money___ how can you expect the dealership to sell you a good car for peanuts and still inspect and clean the car%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt; and keep the dealership afloat|||Negotiating tips: http://www.usedcartips.org/index.html





But actually, $7k will nearly buy a new Kia, with a 10yr/100k warranty, according to ads here.





I used to work for a company that inspected Used Cars for the buyer, at their expense. We once worked with a local TV station, investigating classified ads for cars. The disappointing result was that 90% of the ads were run by resellers. Many posing as if they had owned the car for years. So first off be a serious shopper, don't get excited about appearances. I told people that when they called, or if you email, about an advertised vehicle, ask if the car is titled in the sellers state, in the sellers name %26amp; will they show you their ID %26amp; the title? If you get ANY answer but yes say T-Y %26amp; hang up, don't believe the BS stories about selling for a friend etc. Now as to car choice, watch for over-looked cars. For example, Mitsubishi, Suzuki %26amp; Subaru build solid dependable cars for a reasonable price, they are cheap used, because everyone thinks of the big players. In fact domestics can be a real bargain, if the mileage isn鈥檛 over 100k.





Beyond that, you can always bid low, if that actually let you walk, rare, come back next day to bid slightly higher or move on. Don't get excited about those "inspections" I worked at a dealership that hung those on every used car, but ran none through the Service Dept.; Sales dept. refused to pay for it.|||Remember this: Nobody is forcing you to buy that car. There are many other cars just as good that you can buy. You tell the salesman "This is how much I'm willing to pay". He/she will either say yes or no. If they say yes, then you've got a deal. If they say no, you get out of your chair and head for the door.





More advice, go to the dealer the last day or two of any month, the salespeople have quotas and many will do whatever it takes to get the sale. Hope this helps.|||See Kelly Blue Book or Edmonds.com|||Just stick your your personal commitment to stay at or below 9500. Make the sales person spend a lot of time with you and show him you are serious. They will want to sell to you because you are serious and smart. There are a lot of dopes who will waste money. Don't be one of them.


Best of luck to you and yours.|||Look the car up on KBB.com to find out its value. Once you have done that ask to see the dealers invoice so you can see what the dealer paid for the vehicle. They may give you a hard time about showing you the dealers invoice but trust me, they will show it to you! By looking at the dealers invoice you can tell whether or not they are trying to rape you with the price or if they are trying to make an honest profit. You can ue this invoice to talk the price down. If they aren't giving you the price you want threaten to leave and if that doesn't work...get up and walk away. Most of the time if you threaten to leave or start to walk away suddenly they can work miracles. Always make sure you are willing to get up and walk away from a deal and don't do anthing that makes you feel uncomfortable. Good luck!|||you get what you pay for.|||If you want to pay $7500 and its in the ballpark, tell the dealer "this is what I will pay" then shut up. The dealer will hem and haw, talk to his manager and all kinds of shenanigans. Walk out if he won't say yes or no. Tell him to call you if he wants to sell the car at that price. If your offer is reasonable, he'll sell.

Used car refinance loan for upside down vehicle?

I have a car that is leased with payoff remaining is 20000 and I would like to buy it out...but I see the car value is around 18000...





now, when I apply for a used car loan can I get the loan for 20,000? or will the banks ONLY give maximum loan of what the car is actually worth(i.e. 18,000)?|||call a bank and see...if your credits good they just might|||For most people, banks won't loan more than the value of the vehicle.

Used car refinance loan for upside down vehicle?

I have a car that is leased with payoff remaining is 20000 and I would like to buy it out...but I see the car value is around 18000...





now, when I apply for a used car loan can I get the loan for 20,000? or will the banks ONLY give maximum loan of what the car is actually worth(i.e. 18,000)?|||cheaper to pay out lease......bet its worth no where near 18k.......make your lease payment and when done your not hooked anymore.....

What is the tax rate if I buy a used car in New York? what is the rate to import to Canada?

Hi, there are actually 2 questions. If you know either part, please answer.





[1] I have read that for the tax rate, it depends where in NY I register the car. BUT I plan to import it to Canada--it will not be registered in the US. So what is the tax rate if I just buy the car and drive it away?





Other than misc fixed fees, I know there is a rate (based on the car's value) that I need to pay for the car to be imported into Canada. Is this just the GST of 7% or some other value?





Thanks all!|||CALL YOUR LOCAL DMV OFFICE, THEY WILL BE ABLE TO ANSWER ANY AND ALL OF YOUR QUESTIONS AND AT THE SAME TIME YOU WILL BE GETTING THE CORRECT ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION.

What is the best value used car under $10,000?

The Honda Civic for the years of 2003-2005.





Or Honda Accord for the years of 2001-2003.


_


_


_


_


_|||research it yourself!


http://www.tradecarview.com/





good luck|||Honda, Toyota, Subaru. The are reliable and dependable make sure the service records are kept up with whatever car you buy.|||2005-2006 Ford Taurus is hard to beat. You can purchase these cars for right around $10K, even less for a 2005. And, that is with factory warranty! It's powered by one of the industry's best V-6's (3.0 liter).





No matter what way you look at it, $10K is a lot of money. By buying something with warranty, it will give you peace of mind to know you have the security that if something does go wrong, it's covered. Plus, you can purchase extended service plans for less while the car is under its original factory warranty.





You're going to get a lot of people tell you to buy Toyota or Honda. I agree these companies make very good cars. However, the great resale value that is always bragged about will make $10K a limited budget in purchasing one. You'll get an older, higher miles vehicle, with no warranty for that price with the 2 big imports. Plus, being in the car business, I can tell you (at the risk of sounding like I'm stereotyping all owners, and I'm not) most imports we see traded in are not kept in the shape that domestic vehicles are. The "bulletproof" reputations of the imports, in my opinion, lead many owners to neglect many of the regular maintenance needs of their vehicles. And, most of the lower dollar imports (corollas, civics, matrix, etc.) are most likely owned by younger owners, leading to more irregular maintenance concerns.





The Taurus' I mentioned at this price range are 3 out of 4 times factory program cars that were repurchased from rental agencies. Say what you want about rental repurchased cars, but these rental companies have a LOT of money invested in their fleets and they maintain them better than any private individual could do. So I'd say these cars have the edge on maintenance history over imports in that price range.





You can't say enough about the opportunity to buy a late model car with warranty, and that is why I believe the Taurus is the best buy at this price range.

Why would the bank get a different value than me or the dealer from NADA on a used car?

The dealer shows a value of $16,995 and I get the same number. However, the bank uses the same program and comes up with $14,000....what the F%26amp;^%? Why would the dealer list a used car for so much more than you can get a loan for?|||The bank cares about the LOAN value. The dealer cares about the RETAIL value.|||The dealer can set any price he wants on his car. And perhaps the bank is using fair market value adjusted for their location. But it really doesn't matter, if you want it just do a bigger down payment. Pay $3 grand down and you can probably finance the rest.|||The dealer is quoting you Retail value. The bank is giving you the Loan value. Rarely will a bank loan you 100% of the vehicles value. The difference is going to have to come out of your pocket in the form of a down payment.|||its called profit,, you need to have that much down so at that cost without discounting the car you need that 2995 down cash or trade you have to understand that if they bought the car and repair and inspection fees cost them 13500.00 then that 16995 price is the profit margin they are working with

Used cars values?

check kelly blue book|||Find the Kelley Blue Book Value.|||kbb.com

How to assess the value of used car in hyderabad?

basically i am looking at the consultant and mechanic who can do the evaluation fairly|||I would just ask around in India at your workplace and with your friends and see what they are saying because word of mouth is the best advertisement around, sorry but that is all that I can do for you, good luck...

Which Kelley Blue Book rating do banks use to determine the value of a used car?

kbb.com lists three separate ratings: Trade-In Value, Private Party Value, and Suggested Retail Value. There actually is quite a difference between them.|||Banks actually use the "loan value" which is in the printed books dealers get but usually not available to the public. It's roughly 60% of retail.|||Banks usually use the NADA value, at least they have in the past. One loan officer told me that the Kelly Blue Book price was too inflated, and that's why they went with NADA.|||I am a car dealer and can tell you that banks never use KBB. They do use NADA like other people have said. The quote is "left hand book" is what they usually loan, and that means the left side of NADA book plus tax. KBB has been accused of being overinflated, so now they have countered that with being underinflated.|||Most financial institutions actually use the NADA price guide.|||Current|||Banks will more than likely use private party value. Retail value would be the highest value, trade in would be the lowest. The bank would be considered a private party. Hope this helps.|||they don't use KBB, they use the NADA book and they will give you the wholesale price for your car, thats the price they get them at auction for, your better off selling your own car if you can.|||it depends on what you are trying to do, but purchasing a car, they will get close to retail value but it depends on what is going on at auctions, which is where NADA comes in and records that, which is more acurate, but different banks give different advances, like most will give you 110-120% of retail value including your taxes title and license fees,


WWW.SUNRISECHEVY.COM


MIDLOTHIAN


GABRIEL

Used car value sites?

Thanks in advance for the help provided.





Blessings!|||The best one, and the only one i use, Kelly Blue Book





http://www.kbb.com/|||KBB.com is the most detailed and accurate, but you could also use Edmunds.com. To make sure the car you're looking at is really worth the value, I would aslo suggest visiting Aimmobileinspections.com to get a condition report.|||None of the free ones are worth a darn.





Even the pay one that is, Black Book, isn't worth much without experience.|||KBB , NADA, EDMONDS

Should I buy a new or used car (What is the better value)?

Used cars seem to be a lot of money right now. I looked at Chevy Malibu's for around 13 grand used as 2008-2009 models or I could buy new car for around 16 or 17 grand (Ford Fiesta). The dealers told me "Japanese Cars" such as Toyota and Honda last longer and will hold their "value" longer. Which is the better value (Probably will put around 15-20 thousand miles on the car per year). Thanks!!|||The worst singe day for any new car is when it is driven off the lot, that is the day it loses the most value. A car might be worth (as a trade in) 50% of the value after 3 or 4 years, but that 50% is not even throughout the years, the biggest chunk is in the first year.





If you want the best value, a 2-year old, low mileage, well cared for Honda or Toyota (or Lexus or Acura) from a private party is going to give you the best combination of lower initial price and reliability. However, new cars are easier to finance and come with better warranties, so these factor may make a new car that you are going to keep for 6 years a reasonable purchase over a used car that is going to be more difficult to finance, will not have the same warranty, and may not be the exact combination of features and color you wish to have.|||Anthony,





I would definitely recommend purchasing a new vehicle. A new GM vehicle would come with a great warranty that would be of assistance. Also, in the unfortunate case that you get a flat tire or break down our new vehicles have a 100,000 mile/5-year 24/7 Roadside Assistance.





Thank you





Elizabeth, GM Customer Service|||i would for sure get a honda


they last for LONG time


more then 200,000 miles with usually no problems


and also way better with vtec engine

Can I sue for negative equity on totaled used car?

I financed a used car about 2 and a half weeks ago. This Saturday someone ran a red light and hit my car, sending it into a telephone pole. I'm pretty sure that the car will be a total loss/ write off and I'm worried that the insurance company will give me the blue book value of my car and I'll be left to pay the remaining amount owing on my loan which will probably be around $2000.





My question is, can I sue the other driver for the remaining amount that I will owe on my loan? He has admitted fault and also was charged for wreckless driving/ running red light.





It just doesn't seem fair that I could be doing everything right, just driving down the road and this guy can drop a large debt on my lap.|||First if you're afraid you're going to owe on your car, 2 things: you either overfinanced your vehicle OR you didn't buy GAP insurance. Either way that's your fault. Second, you are due the actual cash value of your vehicle which is NOT blue book.


Can you sue? Nope....a judge is going to tell you what I just told ya---the dirtbag owes for your damages, the dirtbag is not responsible for your large debt, that is over financing OR your failure to obtain proper coverage, which in this case is GAP insurance.|||You should already know this, but the answer to your question depends on whether you borrowed more than the car is worth or not.





You didn't mention that, and it's going to be important. A lot of people, buying a $2000 car with $3000 book value and a good bank, might borrow extra money and blow it on something like polyester pants or Barry Manilow records. If you did that, you'll have to pay for it.|||How much you owe on the car is your problem. The other driver or their insurance company is only liable for the fair market value of the vehicle. You should have bought gap insurance to cover the negative equity. It isn't the other drivers fault you made a bad deal and got in over your head.|||1st off, if your car is totaled, they will only pay ACV, (actual cash value) pre-accident; so if you bought this car for 2k and it was only worth 1500 pre accident, then that is what they will pay you; you will then owe 500 more for the loan; go to nada.com or edmunds.com and find out what the value of your car was pre-accident; that should be the amount they will pay for your totaled car; (remember that the dealer does not sell you a car at "true value" or they would not make money)





you cant sue for the unpaid loan amount; you can only be paid ACV for your auto; this person owes for what the value was, not the loan amount; unless you have gap insurance or paid a substantial amount for a down payment prior to the 2k loan, you will most likely get only the ACV;





also a lawyer will not take an property case (auto); if so, he will take either 1/3 or charge you an hourly fee; so as an example; say you are paid 1500, the lawyer takes 500 and you get 1000; you are now 1k down on the loan and from the lawyer; attorneys are interested in injury cases; look in the yellow pages and what do you see? are you injured? call us;





i know that you are unhappy about being in the wrong place at the wrong time, but be happy he has insurance; otherwise, your company will pay you ACV and you will pay your deductible which most likely is 500;|||You can try. But in the future, always buy gap insurance.|||The other guys insurance should pay off your car.|||YES YOU CAN AT THE CIVIL COURT AND AFTER YOU WIN ASK THE JUDGE THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO HAVE THE OTHER PARTIES WAGES GARNISHED AS WELL.





IF YOU GET NOWHERE WITH THE GARNISHMENT THEN YOU WILL NEED TO PUT A LIEN ON THEIR PERSONAL AND PRIVATE PROPERTY AND THAT WAY THEY WILL HAVE TO SATISFY THE LIEN BEFORE THEY SELL OR PURCHASE ANYTHING LARGE IN VALUE THAT REQUIRES A CREDIT CHECK.





GOOD LUCK.|||Get a good lawyer, you should be able to recover the excess cost, plus enough to pay the lawyer and maybe a little extra to put a down payment on another car. It could take several years, tho. My husband was hit by a car that ran a red light in 2002 - April. We just got a settlement to cover expenses this month...Oct. 2007. expenses were not a new car...we bought it in 2002 and just paid it off in Aug. the settlement came nowhere near close to do that. we are able now to pay off the Dr's bills and such...and we might have $1000 to put in a savings acct. when it's all said and done. but with a good lawyer, all your expenses should be covered.

How do I find out what a car USE to be valued at if I were to do a search from the past?

Car values are based on two major bits of info. Condition and age of the car. If i were to do a search on a vehicle that is 1 year old, its be worth alot more then if I did a search for the value of that exact same car 5 years later.





How can I find out what an 03 car was worth in the year 04 instead of the year 2010?|||What I would do is find out what the same car in a 2009 model year is worth today in 2010. That's about all you can do.

Anyone know of a site to find value of a used car... other than kelley blue book?

Car is 1985 and kelley blue book doesn't go back that far. Any similar sites?|||try edmunds or nada. not sure if they go back that far either|||Nadaguides.com is your best bet for an older car like that, but unless it's some sort of collector's item, it's probably not worth much.

What's the best website for estimating the value of a used car?

KBB.COM





and





http://www.edmunds.com/apps/usedmatrix/U鈥?/a>





good luck finding a used car :]|||www.redbook.com.au





It has Specs, values, every car made (well nearly i think), and pictures.|||KBB.Com





Kelly Blue Book, most dealers use it to get prices to sell their cars.|||I use Kelly Blue Book. It gives you both the trade in value and avg sales prices.|||kbb %26amp; nada are weak valuations.





black book is the only one based in reality.





Even then, condition is everything and most inexperienced people dont know the difference between average, clean %26amp; rough and the difference is often thousands of dollars.|||kelly blue book


kbb.com

When buying a used car (or probably even new) how do you find out what is the real value of the vehicle?

Is it public information for buyers to look at to know the true value of a car? Obviously I understand that dealers of car salesmen will sell the car higher than its value to make a profit, but if one can know the true value of a car he will have more leverage and will not be taken for a ride either.|||You can find the value of a car newer than 1989 (I think) on the Kelley Blue Book website.


http://www.kbb.com/|||KBB|||kelleybluebook.com|||KBB|||kelleybluebook.com

Buying a used car with unresolvable mileage discrepancy?

I am trying to purchase a used vehicle that has a 30,000 mile discrepancy in the odometer. How should this effect the value of the car? The vehicle is a 2003 Chevy Suburban w/ leather reads 73,000 miles but carfax says 105,000.|||pass on this scam of a car|||It means the car is TMU, True Miles Unknown.





Assume the car has 200,000 miles because you cant prove either figure is correct.





It must be sold forever with the TMU box checked on the title, unless its over so many years old in which case its "exempt" from reporting requirements. In my state, its 9-10 years.|||Being a 2003 GM truck, it probably had one of those crapped out odometers when it went in for service--nice big "recall" for 03-07 models.





I would not worry about it as the odometer has been replaced and works now, but that is what you get with a GM product.|||this scammed out stove is a put together and i predict more problems/havent seen it fail yet/what did they say about the roll back/once you get into it the stuff starts to break|||Base it's value on the 105,000 miles and then knock another $200 or so off.

Used car value for 1995 Honda Civic? (Canada)?

I have a 1995 2 door Honda Civic Coupe ( I'm based in Montreal Cananda). The head gasket needs to be changed. Other than that the car is in good condition. New tires, paint good, body good (except for little rust above back wheels), new suspension, new distributor, new timing belt, new water pump, new exhaust pipe, new radiator, Ac in good conditon. What can I ask for it and/or what would be the trade in price?|||http://www.kellybluebook.com

I have a car used entirely for business. What tax deductions do I qualify for?

I have two cars. One is used entirely for business (other is personal). Can I depreciate the business car at the value that I bought it for? Do I deduct the monthly payments? Write off the interest? Deduct gas, car wash, new tires, etc? Or just write off the milage?





Thanks!|||For business use vehicle expenses, you can use regular method (means you use actual expenses!) or standard mileage rate (48.5 cents-2007 for business miles driven). The value that you bought the vehicle for is called basis in tax term.





1. If you use actual car expenses you are able to deduct actual cost of gas, oil, maintenance, servicing, repairs, tires, garage rent, washing and polishing cost, insurance, licenses(registration and tags), and finally depreciation (plus Section 179 deduction, if applicable to you ). Fines and legal fees for parking or moving violations of traffic laws are NOT deductible.





Property Tax paid on the business use vehicle-Schedule A


Parking and tolls paid for business purpose -Form 2106. For above 2 deductions usually your tax software will guide you through.





2. If you use the standard mileage rate, you deduct a flat rate per mile! You can't deduct any of the actual expenses, but loan interest payment. You can't depreciate the vehicle.





3. Section 179 deduction: You can elect to recover all or part of the cost of certain qualifying property, up to a limit, by deducting it in the year you place the property in service. This is the section 179 deduction. You can elect the section 179 deduction instead of recovering the cost by taking depreciation deductions.


http://www.cclib.lib.pa.us/irs/taxmap/pu鈥?/a>





4. Interest of the loan payment for business use car is deductible under any method, but not the payment! You recover your cost through depreciation.





5. A logbook kept in the vehicle showing the date, business purpose, destination and mileage of each deductible trip provides excellent evidendce in case of audit. If you have one yet, it is ok to recreate it using common sense an fair %26amp; honest judgement.





6. Finally, this is very important- REMEMBER! if you use a regular method and take depreciation (MACRS method) in the first year a vehcile is placed in service, you lose the option of ever using the standard mileage rate to compute your transportation expense for that vehicle. In order to retain the option of using either regular method or standard mileage method, you should use the standard mileage rate in the first year of business use.





if in a subsequent year, you wish to use the regular method of computing vehicle expenses, a set rate per mile for past mileage is used to reduce the remaining basis (the value you paid) eligible for depreciation. (Please check Publication 463; pages 14-16, very helpful!)





http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p463.pdf|||Are you self-employed? If so, deduct your vehicle expenses on Schedule C. You can deduct actual expenses (gas, repairs, insurance, cleaning etc) or you can take mileage of 48.5 cents per mile. Under either method, you can also deduct parking, tolls, and finance charges on the purchase of your vehicle.





Once you start to take actual expenses, you must continue to take actual expenses. Mileage is often a better method if you are going to keep your vehicle for some time.





If you are an employee, deduct your vehicle expenses on Form 2106, then transfer your deduction to Schedule A as a miscellaneous deduction subject to 2% of your AGI. You cannot deduct the commute to work, only miles driven for your job that were unreimbursed. You cannot deduct finance charges. You can again select actual expenses (and continue to do this in subsequent years) or mileage.|||Is this the first year you are using it for business? Then you can choose to use actual expenses or the standard mileage rate.|||If you use TurboTax (and I guess some others), it will ask you for the detailed information on expenses, and the mileage. Then it will use whichever yields the larger deduction. Mileage is the easiest, and is a LOT less of a record keeping headache in the event of an audit. Usually the difference (for me) is minimal enough that I usually choose the mileage approach.





Good Luck!

Whats the best way to sell your USED Car Parts?

I have a 2001 lexus es300, that's been in a wreck, the repair will exceed the book value of the car, and the junkyards are offering me very little money, however my mechanic tells me that the transmission and the engine is in perfect shape. So my question is what is the best and Post efficient way to sell the used parts from this car?|||Ebay is awesome, you'll get some great prices, but have to


ship parts.|||craigs list for sure

Help with buying a used car?

I'm going with a friend who wants to buy a used 2003 Hyundai Sonata. I already researched it for her and it seems to be a very high rated budget sedan. So we found a place locally that has one with 70k miles on it and a good price.





One question I have is about getting a loan...what order are you supposed to do it in? Do you need the loan before you start looking? Or do you look before you get the loan? How does it work? She applied for one at her credit union today and should hear back soon.





Also...about negotiating...how are you supposed to negotiate a used car value?|||This is a very common question many of my clients have. You should secure financing before you start looking. Although some banks might need to put a exact vehicle in they can still use your credit score to give you an idea of what you qualify for. I will give you a few tips I give my own clients about negotiating.





1. Pick 3 cars you like(at least) so you can always back out of a situation if you feel uncomfortable about ANYTHING.





2. Get KBB value on all the cars. Since in this case it is retail deal then get the retail value. Print it out and the retail one will automatically give you all the conditions prices like excellent, good, fair. Private party does not you have to do yourself. remember ONLY 5% of used cars are in Excellent condition no matter what the dealer says. If they are selling higher then value then ask way. if they are selling lower then value then ask way, but dont use the words "why so cheap" "why so low" "why under value" and so on





3. Get a carfax. some dealers will do it for free. I offer it for free for my clients(I am not a dealer). If the dealer does it then match up the VIN and the whole thing just make sure.





4. Find a local mechanic that you trust and do a pre purchase check and have it in writing.





Now you have all the ammo all the knowledge you can negotiate. Even if you feel you are getting a great deal still try to get more off.





any more questions let me know I run APS+ we are a fast growing Automobile Personal Shopper business.





http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile%26amp;friendid=452296464





new business and our website is being built so check out our myspace to get more info

If your body was a used car, how would you sell it?

I would say: large family car, not done much mileage, needs body work done. good value, used to drive around town only, owner hurts to sell it. Could you do better? Have a go.|||i sell it as scrap|||pink, and freshly washed|||High mileage. Still runs . Good for parts.|||Like new luxury sedan, low mileage, runs like a dream, large headlights.|||damnnn well id say i have a 5.0 mustang needs a little work under the hood but my :gears; are working properly.|||Non-runner. Spares or repairs only.|||large muscle car for sale, perfect condition body wise, only go`s out in the summer, got some miles on the clock, still looks good!|||I wouldn't sell it because it's still in good running condition and looks good|||Icouldn`t sell it it`s to good besides it has to many good memories,tyres are gettin a bit bald though!

Returning a used car that same day?

I am working on a hypothetical case where a buyer is returning a used car that same day because the cars previous owner was not the celebrity that he though owned it prior to him. (negligent misrepresentation) This gave the car more value. I am looking for RCW's along with other laws about contracts, returning vehicles, and title.|||There is NO right to return a car because you changed your mind.





There is NO right to return a car because you changed your mind.





There is NO right to return a car because you changed your mind.





I cannot say this enough!!!








When you take delivery of a vehicle, and drive it off the dealer鈥檚 lot, you own it!! The dealer is not required to take it back, and most likely will not. If he does, you will have to buy another vehicle from him, because he is not going to refund your money.





Any representation that is not in writing is not enforceable or actionable. Only written warranties or other representations can be enforced.





Prior ownership of a vehicle by any celebrity does not usually increase the value of the vehicle. The only vehicles that would have an increased value due to the prior owner's status would be classic cars that would not be found at a dealership.|||"Negligent misrepresentation" (which doesn't exist...it's either misrepresentation (lack of knowing) or fraudulent misrepresentation(know but don't tell)) does not negate a buyer's due diligence requirements ("ordinary person" requirement). If you're in law school you should know this.





Get on westlaw and get off of the car maintenance and repair section of yahoo answers. Mechanics and engineers don't know the law.

How do you negotiate the price of a used car with an individual using Kelly Blue Book values?

I want to negotiate the price between what kelly blue book says is "good" and "excellent" ($800 difference). Do you think this is possible considering they seem to be saying the car is in excellent condition? (Right now they are asking for $200 more than KKB's excellent.) Should I start off saying I will pay KKB's "good" value, so they will say they will say they will take the "excellent" value and I will end up paying smack in the middle of the "good" and "excellent" value?





Also, should I do any negotating by email (Craigs list) before test driving the car, or wait and do it in person? Do I need to have a man to do the negotiating?|||first off keep in mind, that kelley blue book, and nada guide www.nada.com or national automobile dealers association are a guide, the key to a successful dealership, is buy cheap, and sell as high as possible. as far as used cars go, if you are financing a car the dealer makes money from beginning to end . on a used car, if you want to find out how much money a dealer has in a particular car, ask him what the down payment would be to drive it home right then. (as a general rule the down payment pays off the car for the dealer, everything after this is profit)


many dealers have like a black book, they try to buy everything at auction price.(cheap) and gouge as much money for it as they can later.


another thing people fail to realize, is the dealer job is selling cars all day long, this is his job, you are at a disadvantage, by nature of sheer time it takes to find and buy a good used car.


personally, I have only bought a few cars from a dealer, by far, I found way better deals looking for private party cars from private owners.Unfortunatelyy, this can take weeks, which can be tiring, and once again, the dealer has quantity on his side. the best time to look for a used car is anytime, the only time to buy is the last few days of the month, because some car lots that operate on commission, a salesman may need one more sale to change his paycheck, and be more likely to deal.


One way to try to keep your hard earned money in your pocket, is be prepared to take a car you are seriously interested in buying to your mechanic. The mechanic can keep you from buying a pile of broken down crap. and if the mechanic oks a car but finds minor but fixable problems, you can get an estimate for repairs, and try to negotiate the price down.


sometimes you have to walk away from a car you like, but remember, around the corner is always a better one just for you. www.samarins. com is a website that has good information on buying used cars, and also has used car reviews that may be helpful, cars like nissan honda and earlyToyota'ss, have good repair records, everyone else is behind these three good luck hope this helps|||KBB values are too high. Use Edmunds instead and NEVER pay Retail value. You should be paying somewhere betwen trade in (wholesale) value and private party value if you expect to get a good deal.





As far as condition, you can argue condition all day long but all you have to do is point out a few flaws. How can they say that doesn't hurt the value. No car is in Excellent condition, that implies perfect and no used car is perfect unless it just came out of the recondition shop with a complete mechanical overhaul and the interior and exterior are free from defects.





Negotiating is really simple. It boils down to this. In your mind you have to determine what you feel the car is worth and what you are willing to pay for it. Regardless of what the books say. The books are nothing more than estimates and averages. That means half of all cars sell for less or more than the quotes in the book.





If they accept your offer the negotiating is done. If they don't, walk away and go elsewhere. This isn't the only car for sale in town and you need to let them know you are willing to walk if they don't accept your offer. Of course you can always give a little but don't give in. Sit firm and get the car you want at the price you are willing to pay.|||you should also price the car using edmunds.com and nada.com for a more complete picture for what that make/model/year/mileage/condition/option鈥?is selling for in your area.





after all - the seller has probably done just that too.





No negotiating before test driving the car. Why negotiate before you are armed with the knowledge that comes from the test drive?





Armed with the knowledge of what a reasonable asking price is from multiple sources, I wouldn't say you need a man there unless it would make you more comfortable. You should feel as comfortable and confident as possible when entering a negotiation.





Oh - if the car is being sold 'as-is/no warranty' - a pre purchase inspection is a MUST.





Yeah - it's not as fun as just buying the car on the spot and taking it home, but you wouldn't believe how many people come here lamenting "JustboughtusedcardoesntruncanIsue?|||used car values are more dependant on the locaation of where it is being sold. in general, prices are a bit higher in large cities than smaller ones.





unless the thing has been babied, which, from my experience, is about as likely as me winning the lottery this weekend (get the meaning....), you should simply state the true/accurate shape of the auto and bargain from there.





the economy is still in bad shape and, all things being equal, buyers have the upper hand in all types of business deals.|||I would recommend starting at KKB's "fair" value price. That way you might get it for "good" value.


And wait to negotiate until you have test driven the car and know in what condition it is in.


Usually you should be able to get a car at the fair or good value unless it is in "very" good condition.


Good luck on buying the car!

Where is the best place to sell an used car?

Where is the best place to sell your car to get the most out of it? ebay, auto trader, or any sites you recommend?


the car value should be between $1000-2000, so I don't want to pay like 100 buck just for list the car.





Thank you|||eBay is by far the worst place to sell a cheap old car. Don't even consider eBay.


AutoTrader costs $50


Craigslist is Free








The best place is your front yard. Clean up the car, put a sign in the window and park it in the grass. It doesn't get any easier or cheaper than that.|||You can check out either of those sites (ebay, autotrader) along with craigslist. These will offer you the most money for the car. Craigslist is free, auto trader is $25 for 3 weeks and more, and ebay charges $60 for listings up to $2000 ($125 for $2k+) You might also want to check out carmax as they may offer you a good deal.|||Ebay o beside the road.|||www.craigslist.com


or


www.carsforsale.com





Both are free

A friend totaled a car (bought new). What value should he get?

A friend totaled his 2007 honda CR-V-bought for around 25K. The dealer is offering 16K. KBB and Edmunds list the used car value as 20K. Should he accept 4K less? What should he do?|||Address the specifics to the dealer. Why is the dealer and not the insurance agent involved. Hopefully, he/she has Gap insurance. With the ever widening gap between financed value and off the floor value, gap insurance on new cars is almost a prerequisite these days.

Can I find somewhere the anticipated future resale values of specific used cars?

kbb.com will give you a good idea if you use it right

What is the cheapest, most reliable used car to run into the ground?

I am looking to buy a cheap, reliable used car that I can basically drive for 10 years with as few problems as possible, safety or maintenance-wise.





I don't care about resale value since I intend to run the car into the ground. In fact, a high resale value might make the car too expensive to purchase as a used car.





What would you reccomend?|||Pretty much anything japanese, like others are saying the Honda Civic is pretty good - I knew someone who had one and they got it 10 years old and carried on using it for another 10 years. In the end they drove it to a scrap yard, it drove fine but it was begining to rust in places.|||a nissian shitbox......jk a toyota yaris or honda fit

Report Abuse

|||for $4,000





look for





98 Acura CL, 98 Ford Mustang V6, 98 Honda Accord or Civic, 98 Nissan Frontier or Pathfinder, 98 Subaru Impreza or Legacy, 98 -00 Toyota Corolla or Echo 00





these are all reliable and will last longer than other cars in this price range.





for around $6k an Acura Integra 98-99 is a great car.|||well, there's no guarantee for 10 years,but why not buy a high mileage ex lease car,it would have had its regular services,and would be replaced for newer models.


Honda' have a good reputation,or Vauxhall Astra|||Civic is the way to go! very reliable. fun to drive.|||if u buy such a car e-mail me what it is so i can go get one too.|||honda civic|||civic...no doubt

Used Car Sales Tax, which value is the 6.25 being calculated?

I know that in Texas 6.25 is the charge that the DMV charges on used car sales tax, but which value is it on? Trade-in, Private party, or suggested retail? Also which is the condition they consider excellent, good, or fair?|||on the "net" difference before fees tag etc.|||The tax is calculated on what you actually paid for the vehicle. Or price given to you for your trade plus what you paid for the vehicle if a trade applies.|||the 6.25 % tax is on everything, uncle sam gotta get paid.


Q2) Condition of a vehicle @ trade in is a totally RELATIVE and SUBJECTIVE judgement. do you remember the song " I say potato, you say po-tah-t-ohh". So if you think that a buyer (or dealer) is under rating your cars (trade-in) value, you can always seek another opinion. But remember you might get the same answer again.

Finding what the value of a car used to be after a markdown?

At a clearance sale, everything has been marked down 13%. How much did a car originally sell for, if its current price is $12.962.99?





A. $11,277.80


B. $16,851.89


C. $14,899.99


D. $14,388.94








I'm doing 12962.99 x .13 = 1685.1887 + 12962.99 = 14,648.18 That is not a option what am I doing wrong?|||$12,962.99 represents (100 - 13) = 87% of the price





so original price = $12,962.99 * (100/87)





ans : [ C ] $ 14,899.99


----

Are there so many days to return a used car in Indiana after you purchase it?

After I purchased a used car, I realized I was charged for extra options that I did not want. Also, the interest rate was higher than they quoted, they only gave me trade in value for my car but charged me wholesale for their car. I realize I signed the paperwork. My stupidity, their dishonesty. I can't find out if I have a time frame in which to change my mind and return the car. I have contacted them and their response was, you signed the paperwork to purchase this car.|||You have a 3 day right of recision on used cars. They may be trying to stall you so you run out of time.|||Wow that is what you get for not reading! talk about getting rammed. It is only money, at least it isn't jail time?

What are the most important things in looking for a used car?

What are the best things to look for when shopping for a used car? How do you know if the price is resonable besides using a blue book value?|||The way the car has been maintained... maintenance records ! Any signs of previous body work... check tire wear to see if the frame is aligned properly if there were damage... new tires with previous body damage is not a good sign....


Mileage is important... should be no more than 12,000 miles per year multiplied by the car's age... no more than 60,000 if 5 years old... or 72,000 if 6 years old ! Get a Carfax report to see if there was any odometer tampering... you wouldn't want a car with 200,000 miles on it if it only said 50,000 !!! Check the reputation of the establishment selling the vehicle with the BBB (Better Business Bureau)... if it's an individual, use an independent car inspection service to verify any mechanical problems ... Good luck purchasing ... and yes, the Kelly Blue Book pricing is very reasonable... just make sure you check the price with all options and proper mileage !!!|||check it aint been nicked and has an engine that would be a start...oh and try and haggle the price down that always helps xxgood luckxx|||Repair history condittion of tires and body Get a good mechanic to check it out.Look in the newspapers for the same car for sale . Buy from a new car dealer you may pay a little more but the dealer wants you to come back later and buy a new car. I have made good deals with Budget Rent a Car Rental returns Check Consumer Reports.

Returning a used car the same day?

I am working on a hypothetical case where a buyer is returning a used car that same day because the cars previous owner was not the celebrity that he though owned it prior to him. (negligent misrepresentation) This gave the car more value. I am looking for RCW's along with other laws about contracts, returning vehicles, and title.|||The problem with names are that they're quite vague, but not necessarily untrue.

What are some things the average person might not think of when deciding whether to buy a new car or used?

I'm looking to buy a car, and I'm leaning towards used, but could I be overlooking the value of a new car?





Obviously, a used car is cheaper which is my leading motivation, but of course you do get what you pay for (generally). Used allows for cheaper insurance and I don't require anything new or fancy, just something to get me around and won't die on me.





What are some pros and cons to going with used vs new?|||I would always go for an older car, as you say, insurance is cheaper and generally parts are cheaper too. As long as you buy smart and go for a popular and reliable make and ensure your car is regularly serviced and you have a decent garage then you should be OK. Invest in a decent breakdown service (just in case)





A brand new car with a 3 year warranty will probably provide hassle free motoring for at least 3 years, but during those 3 years would probably have depreciated more than 3 years worth of servicing and motor care would have cost for your older car.





Plus every time you take your shiny new beast to a supermarket or public car park - some idiot is bound to scratch or ding it which will break your heart, with an older car, it really doesn't bother you so much.





I'm not impressed by gadgets and heated seats and built in GPS or a mp3 compatible radio but then again I do drive a 45 year old car





Make sure you get something you are comfortable with - you are probably right to overlook the new car.|||Whether they can afford the payments -

Do banks check if I have full cover insurance on the car at all times?

I'm about to buy a used car valued at about $5000, however, the full cover insurance that the bank lending the money requires is almost the same as the monthly car payment. If I get fell cover insurance for the first 3 months and then I change to just liability, will banks usually check this or not?|||It depends upon the state, but usually insurance companies are required to notify the lender if full coverage is dropped from a car with a lien.





So if you change it, they'll tell the bank.|||you mean take the collision off..HHHMMMMM..what an idea..Id try it ...Several yrs age i bought a car for 10,000 and ysed a personal loan not an auto loan.so i didnt have collision ins...worked out ok.|||You could pry get away with it for a little while. I got a DUI and my insurance dropped me obviously because I diddn't have a license to have insurance but I owned a $13,000 vehicle and eventually my bank forced insurance through them on the vehicle which they included in my monthly payments.|||As the lien holder the ins. company will send them a change of insurance notice,however if your in good at your bank.you mite get them to waive full coverage on this small amount.|||Think about it. You are borrowing $5,000 because you don't have $5,000. Somebody steals the car, or torches it, or you run into a telephone pole, writing it off, liability pays you nothing, nada, zilch. The whole balance becomes due and payable to the bank immediately. Remember, you don't have $5,000! Then you write to Yahoo Answers and say HELP! But, we can't.|||The insurance company will send a notice of cancelation to your bank. Then the bank will take out a single intrest policy on your car and make YOU pay it -- which will be about twice what you would be paying to begin with. Hint: you are too broke to buy this car!|||Cowboybill is sooo right! It's not worth it to try it. The lender will be notified once you remove the full coverage from your vehicle and in some states if you are pulled over and have a loan on you vehicle and found to not have full coverage your license plates can be taken away and you could even possibly receive a fine. If you are trying to save money, try increasing the deductible and lowering the liability. It should help. Or do what most people do. Shop around for insurance. Insurance quotes are free and it will be well worth it to save the money if you can find cheaper insurance.

Best value car: buy used car OR new with scrapage allowance? Looking for low price family run-about.?

We have a 10yr old (+) to trade in and need a fairly basic good value family car. We would normally go for a used car, avoiding high initial depreciation. With the Scrapage allowance, has that 'golden rule' changed. Any advice? Our budget is 拢4k to 拢7k after trade-in / scrapage.|||Hyundai's i10 is 拢7300 new, with 拢2k off on scrappage (拢1k gov %26amp; 拢1k Hyundai) thats a brand new car for just over 拢5k.





The magazines rave about this car and at that level of expenditure there really is no contest.





It has a 5 year warranty and of course you dont have to M.O.T for the first three. (do check servicing costs though).





In five years a second hand car bought for 拢4-拢5k will be worth next to nothing anyway and is likely to cost more in upkeep.





I think the depreciation argument comes more into play when spending 拢10k plus and being able to get that same car a couple of years old for far less.





I have attached Autocar magazine review below and the Hyundai site, a friend of mine has just bought one of these with scrappage allowance and loves it-it's the best selling new car in the UK at the moment for a reason.





Hope this helps!|||the used car market has collapsed even more than the new car market, you could get a great deal on a nearly new car for 拢7000 but even with the allowance you wouldn't get much new for that|||I too have a 10 + year old car and quite frankly would never


buy a new car





The depreciation is massive as is the VAT on new cars,


I'd go for a nearly new car all the time as you'll get much more value for your money





that's only my personal opinion,mind you|||With the Scrapage of 拢2k you could get a Kia Reo 3 1.5 deisel turbo 60 miles to the gallon and only 拢25.00 a year road tax all for 拢10.290.

When you buy a used car from a private seller, is it better to have it inspected at a dealership?

It's my first time buying a used car from a private seller. What all do I need to do to make a smart buy? I know KBB value for the car and the asking price falls in that range. It has less than 8000 miles on it. Should i just have a mechanic come and inspect it or is it better to take it to dealership?|||In my opinion, KBB is not even close to the value that I would purchase a car for. Shop around on craigslist so you get a general idea of how much the vehicle is worth. You should hire a mechanic and have him go check the car out with you. Private sellers (a lot of the time) are sneaky and will try to hide things and sugar coat things. Be careful.





Do not purchase salvage title cars either, they're cheaper by a lot. BUT... the repairs that you'd be doing on the car would cost you as much as purchasing a brand new one. The only difference is, yours is not brand new, some problems will reoccur, and the value of the car will stay extremely low.





I personally think that a mechanic at a local shop are more experienced than the ones who work at the dealership.|||Mechanic is fine.

What dealership is offering the best trade value for a used car?

They are all the same, they use the same book to put value on the trade, weather they discount the car or not. You can sell your own car privately for more money.|||Values vary a great deal. I read about a used car managers convention where a car was on display with very specific details about its driving condition. And of course, they could see everything else. The black book %26amp; nada values were listed and they were told to appraise that car.





There was some kind of prize to the one that hit it closest to what it brought a week later at auction.





Anyway, there were like 30 mgrs there and the car had a HUGE valuation difference. Like over $1000 on a $3000 car.





Used car mgrs are supposed to either make a little or lose a little on all their trade ins that are wholesaled combined.





If they make too much, they get criticized by the owner for not being aggressive enough in going after business. If they lose too much, they get fired. They want to make or lose a little overall.





As a general rule, the dealer that will offer you the most would be the kind that would retail your car.





But its really impossible to know what your real offer is because so often negotiations are payment based and they show a too high allowance for your car.|||They/we all offer about the same amount. We all use the same books, auction reports, and wholesale market reports.





Dealer A may give you $4000, and discount his car $2000. Dealer B may give you $5000 but only discount his car $1000. In the end, its all about the difference you have to pay after the trade.

What can I exspect to pay for a used car in one year?

What I'm really trying to ask is I need to find a website or something that can estimate what a cars value will be in the future. Thanks|||Go to kbb.com and look up the car's value now, then look up the value for the same car but one year older and about 15,000 more miles. The difference would be the approximate amount by which the car depreciates in value in one year.

Is it better to buy a car new, used or lease?

I know each has drawbacks. A new car depreciates in value the minute you drive it off the lot. A lease can seem affordable, but you're left with no car (and no resale value) at the end of it. A used car is cheap at first, but you end up paying a lot in repairs.





So based on your experience, which is most cost effective?|||Its not even close. Its ALWAYS cheaper to buy used and keep the car for many years.





Even with expensive repairs.





Many/most people justify that they "need" a new or newer expensive car because they "want" one.





Granted, most people need reliable cars but you can have cheap, reliable cars. I am a millionaire but drive a car that might be worth $1500.





Granted, older cars need more attention and repairs but its cheaper in the long run. Especially if you can find an "off the books" mechanic who will treat you right.





Ive got a guy that buys parts from a "u pull it" junkyard.





Saved me over $100 on an alternator.|||New car are Better,


Check Our website , You Find the lowest possible price on your new car- for free!|||I lean toward the gently (two, maybe three years old) used car; the previous owner has eaten most of the depreciation, and the really big maintenance expenses are still off in the distance. (You may even have some factory warranty left, especially if you pay the higher price for a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle.)|||used car are cheaper in the long run.

What are the top used cars that don't loose their values that much.?

I need a new car, something I like, but at the same time I want a car that will keep its value, or have the least depreciation value. I m planning to keep the car for a year or two the most.|||Mini Cooper S|||PT Cruiser, Crown Victoria|||Hondas or BMWs|||Dodge ram, Dodge Challenger... anything dodge.|||Honda Civic, Accord, Prelude





Nissan Altima, Maxima





Toyota Camry, Corolla





Subaru Impreza, Legacy|||Honda, Acura, VW. You cant go wrong with a Honda or an Acura!|||i don't like them but Porsche hold their value.

Are private owner used car sales changed by the economy?

What I need to know is if private listings for used cars are selling at actual value or close to the value of the car? Is it normal to find major savings for the buyer right now in this situation? I know it is possible to find major saving from private listings always but in general right now is there high amount of sellers asking and selling under what they should?|||The answer is "YES!" Many things effect the prices of vehicles and if you do not work in the industry you will not know it directly as a consumer. An example is the recent increase of gas prices. If you are the private owner of a 2006 Chevrolet Suburban with a book value of $32,000 (as an example) and a dealership can buy them at an auto auction for $12,000 dollars, how are you going to trade the vehicle? You can't because you would take a bath in lost equity.





A private seller also does not have the same responsibility as a dealer for ensuring the vehicle is safe. Items like brake wear, tires and such are replaced if not worthy of an inspection. A private buyer can sell the vehicle as it sits. It has an effect on a consumer because they may have to spend some money within a short period of time to replace such items.





To make this short and simple; every market is effected by the economy (to include private and dealer wholesale). If the economy recovers, the market for selling privately will also change. It's something you have to be careful of becasue you could end up buying a car that had little or no actual value for the market you're buying in. Do Your Research!|||email me at chilipalmer2005@yahoo.com and I'll be glad to assist in your questions

Report Abuse

|||yes, and no... some sellers are trying to get all they can right now out of their rides, b/c they are worried about the economy, others look at it as why sell now, b/c when the economy turns around i can sell it for twice as much.





its all bartering





so get out there, find something you like, and make an offer

What if used car dealer's DMV paperwork showed car sale value $2,000 LESS than actual customer sale contract?

We were helping aged mother buy a used car. With a quick sleight of hand, used car dealer dismissed the fact that the DMV paperwork showed the car value $2,000 less than her actual contract sell price. No biggie? Or a dirty little way to stiff the State out of sales tax and pocket the difference?|||it really depends on what the price of the car is and what dmv paperwork. I would have to know the state. In NY the tax department wants the sale price of the car to match the price on the bill of sale. Unless you added non taxable items like insurance, gasoline, etc. In most states it should reflect the price of the car before non taxable items and the tax itself not the total price you paid including the tax.|||It's the latter. They're trying to short the state on sales tax.|||it's a form of fraud, tax fraud.


I bet he altered the sales contract as well after you left.|||its the latter definitely, if the dealer is paying sales tax then he would be saving on sales tax and income tax, but usually customer pays sales tax so your mother would have saved on the sales tax and dealer would save on income tax.|||That used car mickey is cheating the state out of it due sales tax.

Wait to buy a used car near year-end?

Is it smarter to wait until 2008 to buy a used car this late into the year? If you go to a dealership, will they still be using 2007 values even though we're only 2 months from 2008? Can I assume once the calendar hits 2008, the used car is a year older and therefore should be cheaper?|||Used car prices are impacted by demand for the vehicle. Age is only part of the equation. On a used car, waiting afew months most likely will not have an impact. Check whatever you are looking at against KBB.com.





A few months will not make a difference.|||Makes no difference, each month the used car values drop slightly, with little exception, depending on the resale market. Do you really want to wait to save a few bucks?|||But a good used car that is 2 yrs.old and save your self thousands of dollars! If you buy a car and pay $400 a month, that is $4800 dollars a year take that times 7 yrs and you have $ 33,600 in cash, now after 7 yrs whats the car worth? $1200 to $2,000 ? Think about it!

Help with negotiating price on used car?

I found a 2000 Ford Focus at a local dealership. Carfax report came out clean. The car has 74k miles on it and is selling for $5,195. Adding on about roughly 600 bucks for tax, tag and title im looking at about $5800 total cost. My credit sucks big time however the dealership is offering guaranteed financing at the moment. I know this means my interest rate is going to be ridiculous but thats the price you pay for not being financially responsible. I've done my research on the car and edmunds values the car a few dollars less than what the dealer is selling it for.





I basically want to walk in there and know im getting the best deal. Considering the price of the car my payments will still be reasonable to my budget even with a high interest rate.





What I want to know is if I have any leverage as far as the price of the car and how much I put down? What tactics should I use to make sure that I get the best deal?|||$5200 for a six year old car is too much money.


Also an old Ford is not going to last a long time





If you really are purchsing that old a model get a Nissan or Toyota. They are both more dependable and more reilable.|||see if you can get a pre apporved credit union financing


this put the power of negotiations back in your hand and not the dealers


NEVER fiance thru a dealer unless you are areally desperate|||The 2000 Focus is not a very reliable car. I'd look elsewhere. A 1999 Honda Civic will cost about the same amount and is a FAR more reliable car. Just a thought.|||if you have 1 or 2 k to put down youre in a better place, but wiht bad credit that kinda wipes it...they want that dog off the lot which may help you. If you could get it for 52-55 total out the door youd be doing well. so offer them 5 total to start, with a decent down payment if you have it.|||having bad credit puts you at a disadvantage. With good credit you could demand certain things, and maybe get what you want. But with bad credit, nobody is going to bend over backwards for you.|||hi try buy car on www.cars.com or wwww.autotrader.com|||online check "edmunds.com. you can put in the car and accessories and build a price for that car. you can also refer to kelly blue book for prices on your car.|||offer them 3000 for it. Thats still about 1500 more than they paid for it.





These cars are a dime a dozen, and they are not worth a crap.





Mostly plastic and foreign parts. No real car it just looks like one - sort of.|||One of the best tools for getting the best deal is having your own financing prior to walking into the dealership. Try seeking financing from other sources then negotiate. Best of luck with your car purchase.

How do I find out the market value of a used car?

Trying to buy my mom's car and she'll sell it to me for market value. Anyone know how I can get an estimate off the internet? thank you in advance. : )|||go to kbb.com, enter in the particulars, BE HONEST in assessing the condition of the vehicle !!!


You should offer her the "Private Party Sale" price. Hand Her the cash.


Enjoy!|||KBB or blue book. Much better if you will try to search both of them. The more research means more information you can get.|||Take to to carmax. They will offer you a price. That price is a little below wholesale "market".|||Kelly,s Blue Book|||blue book|||kbb.com

Is there an easy way to look up the value of a used car?

I forgot to write down the kind of van but I think it is a Dodge Caravan %26amp; maybe a grand caravan but it has 100,000 miles %26amp; is a 2006. I want to find out if they are asking a fair price. How can I easily do that? Thank you.|||=== the Kelly Blue Book is about close ==== the real info is at the sales sites on the NET ... if you google/search %26lt; used cars for sale Ur city UR state %26gt; in the search bar === you will get a true street value for a car ...... suggest you do %26lt;used cars for sale Houston Texas%26gt; and this city has lots of cars for sale and the prices are competitive.....|||The "Blue Book" (available in libraries, at auto parts dealers, or perhaps online) lists true values based on mileage and year, make and model.|||Kelley Blue Book website.|||go to www.kbb.com (kelly blue book) and you will find out everything you want to know.|||Kbb or nada online....|||Kelley Blue Book online.

Resale value of this used car?

Planning a used car and have question regarding the cars resale value.





Seller claimed it is a ’08 model (which is true by looking at its original window sticker), but since the car was registered in Dec. 2007. I was wondering where I should put the year as “2007” or “2008” when looking up the resale value on KBB?|||Time it was for sale started. No changes|||Look on the registration,it will state what year the car is. It does not matter when the car was made or sold. They made the ford Pantera for two and half years but, they were sold new for seven years total.


Warranty-Starts the exact date when the car was delivered/titled (pending which state) NEW.





PS You can take the VIN and look it up in NADA|||you didnt sday what car you was talking about but just by typing into search box


same year model for sale will find others just like it for sale can see what they going for





kbb might not be best way to look it up


what its worth an d what one sells for never the same|||You should put the year of manufacture, usually found somewhere under the hood. If you put something different and the buyer sees this they may think your lying bout the details on the car and change the mind on the price and if the want to buy the car at all.|||Cars made in August of 07 can be 08 models.





Yours is an 08.|||Time it was for sale started. No changes

How much value should a used car be discounted if it has accident in history?

Assuming it works flawless, the damage has been fixed, and it still looks mint just like one without the previous accident claim|||It really dedpends on the extent of the damage. It if was light damage it should only be a slight difference in price. The repaint is what will cause the decreased value.





If the damage was severe with a lot of body, frame and rebuild work done the value will decrease significantly (approx 10% -15%). Who wants a car that may not have been repaired well when you can just keep looking for one with no repairs. There are way too many cars for sale to settle for one that has been in a bad wreck.





Of course a car that has been salvaged and rebuilt is about a 40%-50% decrease in value because these cars tend to exhibit real structural issues and are deemed unsafe in many cases. Anyone buying a salvage car is ignoring some serious safety issues in pursuit of a bargain.

How do you calculate value of a used car when the engine is replaced with a new one from the manufacturer?

I have a 2001 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 with 125000 miles on it. I just put a new motor in it, an authorized Ford Dealer did all the work. The new motor has a 5 year warranty. The motor has 0 miles on it. Kelly Blue Book is $8000. How much more can I ask considering the NEW MOTOR selling it Private Party???|||Unless you are a dealer offering a warranty, its likely that engine does not have a transferrable warranty. Which means that once you sell it the warranty is gone ( read the fine print on your paperwork) If the blue book is 8 grand thats what it is, no one will pay you 10 grand for an 8,000 dollar car, new motor or not. I know what you are thinking, and I undestand what you are asking, but reality is reality, and finding someone whith a pocket full of cash does not always happen when you need it. sometimes you get lucky, but the best way for a quick sale is sell it less than its worth. Not more. Private party cars can be a crap shoot when trying to sell, in reality, you make your money on a used car when you BUY IT. WHICH MEANS BUY CHEAP THERE IS NO OTHER WAY.


THE new motor is a great selling point thats for sure, but check what I said about the warranty paperwork. good luck|||Most of the middle class person opting for cars.

Cars has become good medium for transportation but

big problem are being faced by metro cities in the

form traffic and pollution. Altohugh, in many cities

CNG are being used in public vehicle which has

contirbuted towards reducing pollution substatially.

Due to this auto garages are increasing day by day.



http://www.magghu.com|||You might be able to add $1000 to the average private party book price.

Does adding new speakers and a radio receiver lower the value of a used car?

I own a 1997 Toyota Avalon XLS and the speakers make crackling sounds so I was going to replace all the speakers and the radio receiver and I was just wondering if I was to sell the car in a few years would it lower the value.|||Trade-in Value will decrease, yes. But private sale will increase.|||Not at all it would up the price I would pay more for a car if it had new speakers and radio reciever

What website does car dealers used to get the book value of a car?

A friend of mine is trading her car and she did a Kelly Blue Book on her car and got the value but when she went to the dealer they told her they don't use KBB and that they used a different system. They appraised her car at a lower value than KBB and now I'm wondering what appraisal website do they use because KBB gave my friend a higher appraisal than the site that the dealer uses.|||The dealers use a subscription based dealer only website called Manheim. This website lists what similar cars are currently selling for at the dealer only auctions in their area. When a dealer is taking your car in on trade they are essentially buying this car from you. They won't give you much more for it than what they would pay for a similar car at auction.



If you feel that the dealer is not giving you a fair price you can always sell this car yourself. You won't have access to Manheim to price your car. You will need to use the public websites.



Edmunds

Kelly Blue Book

NADA Guide



It also helps to see what cars similar to your are selling for in your local area. If your car is priced higher than similar cars in your area guess which ones potential buyers will look at first? The classified section of your local newspaper can be helpful.



When evaluating condition of your car you are better off if you are brutally honest with yourself. It is very easy to state that your baby is in better condition than it actually is. Potential buyers will quickly spot this ans simply move on. Price the car fairly and it will sell.



One last piece of friendly advice. Post the price in any advertisements and on your for sale sign. Avoid using "Or Best Offer". Buyers prefer that you are up front with the price. If you are evasive with your price they may not even give your car a look.|||Dealers use what's known as the 'Black Book' to value trade ins. They are based on how much they sell for at dealer only auctions, so prices will be much lower.





You can value your car using Black Book here:


http://www.manchesterhonda.com/trade-in-鈥?/a>|||Most use black book by mail. A little black book that comes out weekly.





Its prices are LOTS more accurate than KBB.|||auto trader and bluebook

Why has Kelly Blue Book increased the value of used cars within the past year. I bought 2 cars last year and I?

just checked their value on KBB and it has went up by almost $1,000 dollars. I thought car values was supposed to depreciate over time. Is there something I dont know. I am trying to buy a car from Craigslist and they all seem overpriced to me. A little help?|||The market has shifted back up in the past 4 months after declining slightly since last April. It is a representation of the past 3 years. Declining new car sales and leases from 2008 to 2010 have resulted in fewer used cars on the market. Fewer leases in 08-09 means fewer lease returns in 10-11. The used car market depends heavily on lease returns and rentals. Less cars in the market means higher prices on the available units.|||Are you sure you are comparing apples to apples ? That is, are you sure you weren't using private party value before and retail now or wholesale before and private party now ?





Its also possible that with the weak economy, demand has increased for some used cars. Plus, that tends to happen seasonally too around income tax time.


Not usually $1000 though.|||Car values are going way up. Enterprise has totally run out of cars. New Car sales went from 17 million new cars to 10 million new cars. For a couple years the did nearly NO leasing. The supply of used cars has shrunk rapidly lately. I have watched Chevy Colbalt this week sell for $1300 over book, a year ago they where $1300.00 under book. This article will help and it is about 6 months old. And much worse than this article describes.



Last week went to Vegas wanting to buy 20 cars, usually they have about 4500 cars at this auction and last week they had 1200 cars. We said there are more buyers there than cars. It's going to get much worse. And bought 1 car!!!



A local dealer bought a Ford Focus for his son a year ago for $1700.00 and sold it Wednesday for $4300.00



http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/Sav鈥?/a>|||Another sign of how bad the economy is.|||since people can't afford new cars the price of used cars have gone up.

What factors add to the value of my used car? new tires? new brakes what?

i was in an accident and my car was damaged. the insurance company has to determine if the repairs are more than the value of my car. my friend says to tell them about my new tires, that adds value. what other things can I add to up the value? i also have new rotors, a new muffler, and some other stuff do they count? what counts?|||Lol, your friend is not helping you. He's hurting you.





The insurance company knows that people try to add value to their vehicles.





New tires, new muffler, etc, do not add to the value of the car. They help keep the value of the car at what it should be.





For example, if a car is worth 1,000 in fair condition, and something breaks on it, say the tires are bad....so you get new tires. It's now back to fair condition.Which means it's worth 1000 again. Even if they're $5000 tires. It doesn't make any difference.





So, unless you want to be laughed at by the insurance company, accept the value that they state the car is. Otherwise, you'll be guilty of attempted fraud.|||Howdy all, I found this great website - the address is in the box below - for all stuff about motor insurance, lots of tips, how to get budget insurance, teen drivers and all about claims too. Totally recommended!|||Insurance company base the value of a car of the blue book price. I would look up the model make and year of your car and that would give you a ball park figure of what they will give you.





Kelley Blue Book


http://www.kbb.com/





Edmunds(another car pricing guide)


http://www.edmunds.com/





Print out the price that both KBB and Edmunds give you for documentation to give the insurance company. Make two copies so you have one for yourself.





Anything that proves you maintain the car and keep it in good working condition. It varies from state to state. Along with what you have listed, On Time Oil Changes, Brakes, Wheel Rotation and alignment, On Time Tune Ups and Servicing, but you need the statements from the mechanics to prove that all these things were done. This won't increase the value but it may qualify you for the max amount the insurance company will pay.





This link is for orange county but it may give you some other ideas


http://orangecountyautomotive.com/top12.鈥?/a>|||Nothing counts.............just the cars value at the time of the accident will count...(ACV) Actual Cash Value.

Trade a Brand new car for used car?

I still owe 22,000 and the used car is worth 8,000 my brand new car value is 18,000. How much is my new car loan?|||Haven't got a clue what Gary is talking about but simple math says you own $4000 on your current car which means you have nothing to put towards the other car. So you would need a loan for $12,000|||You don't say who set the values on the two cars, but if you can get the used car plus $10,000 for your new car, you can pay that money toward the original loan, leaving you with $12,000 owed on the used car. I doubt that you can do this, but am answering your question based on an assumption that you have given a trade difference rather than the actual values. If these are retail sale prices, you can't do it.|||If you get $8000 in trade your new loan is $32000. Do not do it. You are (if you can get it) going to end up paying over $40000 with interest on a car worth $18000. Next time you go to get a new car it will get even worse.





It looks like I did not explain this well.





He owes $22000 but he can trade his car for $8000 leaving a balance of $14000 on his existing loan. He needs a new loan for the new car of $18000, add that to his existing outstanding loan and you get $32000|||you cannot trade something you do not own.





if you owe 22K and buy another car they will add this amount to whatever you owe.





so you'll owe much more and be further in the hole than before.





the value of your car has nothing to do with it.|||you will have to get enough money to pay off what you owe on the car you have no matter what you doing.. so they need to pay you 22,000 or your just wasting time

I bought a used car under false pretenses as to it's value. What can I do?

I bought a used car from a private party. I was specifically told that the Blue Book value of the car was over $3000 and that greatly influenced my buying decision. I later found many problems (Today being a week after purchase) and discovered that the value of the car is around $800. I contacted the seller to explain my unrest and he mocked me and told me it was my problem now. Do I have any rights here?|||while your money was in your pocket last week, you had the right to remain silent, and take the car to any mechanic of your choosing. When you decided to give up that right and lay down your money for some unknown reason. there is now nothing you can do, and the guy knows it. Why you did not go to a mechanic first is the million dollar question. You cannot say " hey, wait a minute?" over a week later, it does not work that way. Next time be more aware of what you are doing. Here is a web site that can help you a lot for next time www.samarins.com is free it has tons of information on how to buy used cars, what to look for, and what to look out for. there are also used car reviews, there are a lot of crap cars out there now, you need to recognize a lemon before you buy, spend some time researching a vehicle you find. You can type " year make and model problems and recalls ?" in the web search box and get some information that way. If its a newer car, you can check websites like Edmund's.com it has lots of information on new and used vehicles and you can find pricing information there too. Another website for classic cars would be hemmings motor news, there are all kinds of links and stuff for old cars, muscle cars and trucks and parts. Auto trader is a online web site that has cars for sale in 50 states, it also has auto trader classics and truck trader too. www.nada.com is a good way to get prices for all kinds of vehicles|||you have the right to fix your car.



All the information you have today was available before you bought.



If you had bought the car, and found out it was actually worth $10,000 - would you be running t his house with $7,000? Nope. You would be laughing about the great deal you got from some idiot who didnt know what his car was worth.|||If someone told you a cat was a dog, would you believe them ?





Verbal representations are worthless.





If you relied on anything a seller told you, you deserve to be mocked.|||Resale value affected your buying decision?



I hope you don't buy houses like that!



Ask SlapSource about this...oh wait, he lives in mom's basement, so never mind...



Judge Judy would laugh your A$$ out of court if this was a case in front of her.|||This is on you. You should know the value of a vehicle before you buy it. Private party car sales are "as is" and the seller was right - it's your problem now.|||You should of done your research before buying the car. And not taken the word of the seller. All you can do now is enjoy your new car...................%26amp;%26amp;%26amp;|||I am quite sure that "Top Source" will come here and tell you to sue the pants off the guy and take his first born. It is your responsibility to determine the worth of the vehicle to you along with it's condition and suitability for your needs. Your rights are to fix it or sell it. No do-overs. No returns.|||The seller was foolish to mock you, that can anger people.





Document everything then call some lawyers in your area who practice consumer law and ask for advice on the phone.





They'l prob mention suing in small claims court where I've sued and won some judgements.





In WA with used car sales by dealers, the law says the value of the car must be in line w/ others similar to it.





So maybe the judges are used to using that standard and would find in your favor even tho private sales are exempt from that law last time I checked. Check for updates.





Search your VIN, Vehicle ID Number, online w/ 3 services similar to Carfax which is ok for a 4th opinion.





Maybe there's much wrong that would bolster your case. Odometer rollback is common.





Have a mechanic look at all the VIN locations on your car. They can be found by searching online. If one doesnt match, that could be Fraud, good grounds for undoing the deal.





Sometimes defendants [you'd be the plaintiff], are afraid to goto court for various reasons and at some point will agree to an out-of-court settlement. Often this is when they get your suit notice mailed from the court house and they know you'r serious.





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http://www.civiltree.com/filed_suit.php “Recent Small Claims Filings %26amp; General News...”





Some Automotive Small Claims Defendants: Audi, $3.5k warranty breach. EconoLube, $6k, negligent credit reporting. Percision (sic) Tune Auto Care, $15k, overcharge on repairs. Superb Auto Repair, $1.2k, shop damaged vehicle. Auto Professionals, Inc, $2.3k, warranty breach. Sangera GM dealer, $3k, fraud. Case evaluation, finding/hiringlawyers, ask a lawyer, search. http://law.freeadvice.com/small_claims/s…





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http://www.atg.wa.gov/askcolumn.aspx?%26amp;id… WA state atty gen’s office.





WA Attorney General Rob McKenna: "Although there is no express requirement for a dealer to inspect a used vehicle before it is sold,





“the car must be safe and legal to drive.





“If you were sold an unsafe vehicle, you have rights under state contract law and can request that the dealer make the car roadworthy or refund your purchase price...





“Absent the required disclosures and your explicit consent,





“an ‘as is’ sticker in the window of a car or a signed waiver is not sufficient to waive the implied warranty...





“Every used car sold by a dealer in Washington for personal use has an ‘implied warranty of merchantability’ under state law:





“This means that the dealer promises the used car will be fit for ordinary driving purposes, reasonably safe, without major defects,





“and of the average quality of similar cars available for sale in the same price range.





(Cars sold by private owners or for business use aren’t covered under this law.) May, 2006.” Check for updates.